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further of particular importance presented itself on my journey till I arrived at Wanganui; where I could observe a very perceptible improvement in the natives, within the last year; which is shown in some of their dwellings being built in imitation of the Europeans' style; and in an anxiety to be possessors of sheep and cattle, as well as fruit trees and seeds; which they receive from the Missionary gardens, and settlers, - who are mostly a respectable class of people; and interest themselves on their behalf. To the exertions of the Revd. R. Taylor, I should principally attribute the progress they are making; and the influence he has over the tribes of his District, proves of the greatest benefit to the settlement generally. Having remained some days at the Mission Station, and visited the Native villages in the vicinity, Mr. Taylor and I pursued our inland journey on the 5th. of November, by the Wanganui River, a distance of 40 miles; on leaving which, we travelled for three days across a forest country, with patches of available land, and occasionally some fine timber of the rimu and tawai. We next entered on open country resembling much the plains of Bathurst in New South Wales. The soil is of a darky, sandy loam, covered with coarse grass (termed by the natives, - Pouka); which improves towards Tongariro. We encamped at night on the banks of the Waitakaruru River; which flows through the extensive plains. In ascending towards the Taupo Mountains, which were partially covered with snow, we experienced a sudden change of climate, and aspect; our path leading over volcanic ashes and lava, until our approach to Rotoairo, the first of the Taupo lakes; being the only settlement since we left Wanganui River. Here the country again assumes a fertile appearance. The settlement is situated at the Southern extremity of the lake; from where the Waikato River takes its source. We were much pleased with the chief personage at this place, (mother-in-law to Heu Heu); who has a dignified and graceful appearance. She received us kindly; and pressed our staying the night; not to pass without receiving some marks of her hospitality; of which we gladly accepted, remaining there till the following day; and at night reached the settlement of Herekiekie, a young Chief of Taupo; who has been long meditating an attack on Waitotara, to revenge the death of his father (Tauteka), who was killed there. We had reason to suspect he still had intentions of carrying his designs into execution, whenever an opportunity offered; though professing friendship, and diverting our attention to the various objects worthy of notice in his neighbourhood; one of which, in particular, - a spring of boiling water, excited our curiosity; which, at intervals of one or two minutes, gushed upwards with a foaming noise, similar to the bursting of a whirlpool; accompanied by a subterranean rumbling; as if the earth was about to open, and swallow up the unwary spectator. The following day we arrived at the Rapa; and met with a friendly reception from the old Chief, Heu Heu; who had guns fired on our approaching his place; and whom, on our arrival, we found seated on a large stone in front of his residence; surrounded by his tribe, who all bade us welcome; after which he led us to his house; and on enquiring for some of his friends, with whom we were acquainted, he entered into a long conversation, respecting the war at the North; saying he considered Hone Heke one of the least of the New Zealand Chiefs, in prowess was more than a match for us; that Hongi, his relative, who went to England to see King George, advised Heke, when he was a little boy attending on him during his last illness, to be friendly to Europeans. But should it happen that after his death, a flagstaff be erected in New Zealand, he should be careful to prevent such erection on his own territories; as that would shew a desire on the part of the Europeans to possess his lands, and deprive the New Zealanders of their country. He said Taraia was a restless Chief, and not unlikely to take part with Heke; that he was, himself, looking quietly on; but could not avoid having a friendly feeling towards him, as a man

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