SNAILS.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXV, Issue 2069, 21 December 1907, Page 2 (Supplement)

SNAILS.

HOW THEY AKE TREATED IN PARIS.

(By C.W. in .London “Daily News.”) “Tho only way to treat a snail,” said Amanda, “is to pick it off whatever it- is eating and throw it over the wall; if your boots are thick and your mind strong you might—squash it.” Snails had been the topic of conversation as wo strobed along the Bouleva-rdo towards on r favorite res-t-uarant, “Wo arc so absurdly insular,”' I observed. “How tlio French must despise us for our want of ente—prise, and our fear of trying now experiments, especially in eating. I’ve oaten frog’s legs,” I continued, “though I didn’t know what- they were till afterwards —they were very good.” . ~ “It’s just- knowing that matters, said Amanda, a.s we took our 6cnts under the gaily striped awning behind the hedge of laurels in little tubs. . We always occupied tire same corner if posible, and I think Monsieur of the restaurant kept it tot- us. The soft -September breeze watted tile scent of the late roses from one of the stret flower stalls to us, and a big. yellow chestnut leaf fluttering down Undecidedly settled in the middle of niv soup plate. The pavement- .was alive with the gaily chattering throngs, and the ugly steam trains puffed and labored along the road. It. was early, and Monsieur was -not busy.

' . “Tell us about snails,” I said. “Ah, les escargots! Shall 1 I order Madame hallf-a-dozen ? Thev are beauties —fresh from Burgundy, and in splendid condition.” “I’m not very hungry,” I said, looking at- Amanda. “In England,” shrugging . his shoulders, “you do not eat snails von have none there perha-ps?” “Oh, ves, we have/’ observed Amanda, “any quantity, but we don’t ea+ them.” •’How strange,” said Monsieur politelv. but pityingly. “The best of them,” turning to me, “come from Burgundy and -Champagne, and those with the finest flavor are fed on. vine leaves. This is the season for them—from now till (March —>for, of course, we do not collect him qaund il court—how do you say? When he runs?” “Fancy a. snail running, said Amanda. with fine scorn. “I -have beard- they -axe very good, but —” -I began feebly. “Ah, I assure Madame that the entente cordiale in which we all rejoice would bo still stronger did the English eat of our delicious petis gns. 1 ‘Why don’t vou order some?” asked Amanda as she cut off a piece from her “biftek.” “I quite agree with you,” she continued. “We are horribly narrow and prejudiced as a nation. I’vo always admired the way in which you fit yourself into tho iifo of the people wherever you aire.” “I like to feel I’in one- of them, I answered, “and in Parts .more particularly—these delightful little tables in i-he open air, this soup, the waiters, even that absurd poodie with a red ■ribbon in his hair —” “lx’s your duty to order snails, said Amanda as I paused for breath. “Tenez,” said Monsieur as he returned after establishing at a tablo two fat Frenchmen with napkins tucked under their chins. “Madamo interests herself in our escargots. I will seek a recipe for cooking -them which has been handed down from my great-great-grandmother in Bur-gun- " Presently he returned with a small brown covered -book held carefully by the corner of his napkin. . . It was dated 1760, and there in faded characters carefully written upon lined paper I read — “Take a- dozen fat snails which have fed upon vine leaves —they must bo closed or sealed, for -if collected while they ‘run’ there will be dirt anti other impurities upon them. Boil for twenty minutes in water- to which a little vinegar lias been added. Extract each snail from his shell and then stew them slowly -for half-an-hour in water containing some butter, an onion stuifed with cloves, a sprig of sweet majorum, a leaf of laurel, and other sweet herbs. Restore each snail to liis shell and add some butter, pepper and chopped parsley, baking till very hot. The taste is then verv delicate and tender, and much -healing is obtained fo-r those who suffer from their lungs or chests.” Amanda did not seem much impressed by tlio persual; she was trying to explain to .Monsieur that she wanted a potato “baked in its jacket,” “Madame finds it interesting? asied Monsieur, as I returned the book to him, “There are whole farms in J3urgun<ly Ha.ut e-MaiHQ where only snails are produced. They are carefuly packed in baskets, and we have to keep -them at an- exact temperature. If too hot, the snail •Mv'<aJ£e.s from liis sleop and runs ; it 7 cold- he dies and becomes—how do yay?”-bad—rot-ten.” y T fe ‘t myself being gradually hypnotised ‘into giving -that order.. Monsieur beaffied upon me as I mixed my salad • Ama-uda had arrived at her “ fee, for wh'ch she demanded milk. “Hive them as a savoury.’ she said. “You ought to be ready JrtOTch when vou are about it. i uares , you could manage them, if you shut °“T-ho cook so beautifully,” I murmured, “that really one would hovered behind me; he saw hesitation in my eyo. I was sliding down the gentle slopes of hesita“Madamo desire —?” he murmured. I bo-wed my head. , r “Francois, dee petite gns p.onr. Aladame,” shouted Monsieur. The die was cast, and I sat in trembling silence. . , Amanda nibbed a piece of Jiouya-t, sho was kind enough not to look at or speak to mo. Presently a small metal dish appeared, on which wore six large yellow snail shells, accompanied- by a small two-pronged fork, i prodded a shell, and begin to hope they had sent mo empty ones bv mistake. II thero was anything inside it seemed a long way from the surface. “Pardon, Madame,” said Monsieur, had watched my attempts, this is how it is demo,” and taking tip my fork and one of the shells he defth extracted a slimy morsel, which lie hamled to in/-u . -i* Fortunately Jus attention was uistracted by the arrival of a tho next table. 1 furtively dropped the tit-bit on the pavement 'beside my chair, and contemplated the six shells with a sinking heart, I shall always remember Amanda s consideration on this occasion with gratitude. Sho appeared to be -immersed in contemplation of a small bov with long hair, who seemed to have some difficulty in keeping Ins curls away from the half-lobs/er which he was trying to manipulate. I gingerly extracted another snail; it was "reener and more mysterious looking that the first. What joy to see a lean vellow dog approach! I offered him the morsel -, lie would have none of it I “It’s getting a little chilly, I observed, after a- pause. “Shall we -go and see if the band is playing in the girdens?” . . ~,, “.Madame finds tlio snails good, asked Monsieur, hurrying up as wo paid our bill. “Wo have had an excellent dinner,” said Amanda in her best Frendi, and with an air of dignity.