CYCLING IN POVERTY-BAY.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXVII, Issue 2402, 18 January 1909, Page 2

CYCLING IN POVERTY-BAY.

FROM GISBORNE TO WAIROA. A JOURNEY THAT IS ,A RECORDBREAKER F.OR THE STEEPNESS OiF ITS HILLS AND THE BUMPINESS OE ITS ROADS. (By “Velox.■?■•*) Aly friends said I nvas mad' to take a kicyele over such a journey. ‘‘You’ve no idea what the roads arc like” quoth they/ adding as an afterthought: “If it comes on to rain you’ll (have to get in the coach, because you can’t even wheel a bicycle then, let alone ride.” Then came the universal panacea: “Ttike a horse and do the journey in comfort,” and after a fair experience of Poverty (Bay roads I have non- no difficulty in understanding why there are more horses in this district than anywhere else in the Dominion. However, because I have long sheltered a theory that the bicycle provides the best means - of seeing any country, and as the steepest of hills, the st-iffest of winds, or the worst if roads bad never daunted my wheeling -spirit heretofore, and atso because there is a powerful latent element of pigheadedness* in my constitution, I disregarded the advice of my friends, cast a contemptuous 'glance at the numerous steeds, weedy and otherwise, that infest the place-, and looked around for a first-class machine that would stand a rough journey. This I obtained from Mr H. Anderson, who kindly fitted me. up- with a new Rudge bicycle, and I was likewise fortunate in inducing this sterling road rider and genial companion to make the tour with me.

Starting out as the clock struck five on New Year’s Eve, we bird a pleasant ride as far as Muriwai. where we had tea between six and seven. This left us with the greater part of the journey to AVharerata—which -was to constitute the first stage to be traversed by moonlight. However, we divested ourselves of collars .and coats, and tying these to the handlebars, bent our heads over the front wheels >and got to work in good earnest-, so as to make use of every minute of daylight. Quickly the road was left behind us ana everything went merry as a marriage bell until, having crossed the Maraetitiia stream, we struck a patch of fearful roadway. 'Like almost all of the road to AVairoa, this was absolutely devoid of metal and a huge mass of loose earth had been scattered and lay several inches deep right over the road. -It was impossible to push through it, but by dint of skilful riding we discovered a corkscrew route a few inches wide at the sides, that had been spared by the “roadmakers,” and thus kept bowling along.. CLIMBING WHARERATA.

After a while we crmie to. the long grind that is represented by fixe ascent of' the AATiareratu. hill.' It is five miles or more to the top and rises some thousand feet above the level of the sea. Parts of it we could ride -and did, thus very greatly accelerating the llvte of ascension, but most of it was accomplished by the time-honored method adopted' by Adam and many others, known. as “padding the hoof.” It was strenuous work, but we tackled the taskunder very favorable circumstances. After a hot day in Gisborne the evening air in the mountains was delightfully codl and refreshing, whilst the moon shone with sufficient strength to show tho pathway very distinctly. Still it was certainly n long weary climb, and the hundreds of bends, each of -which promised to reveal the summit once the cornet was turned, scorned endless. As my mate succinctly ’Pit it :“AYhen you do got to the top you’re not there.” The remark on paper reads foolish, but anyone who •has climbed AViiarerata will appreciate- its meaning. However, as every line has a turning, so every mountain has n top, and shortly before lialf-past nine the balking of a clog suggested that wo were nearing some habitation, and a few minutes later a turn in the road revealed the welcome lights from -Mrs Kennedy’s accommodation house. Soon we were given an opportunity to satisfy a cyclists’ appetite and /halfandiour later retired for a rest that certainly seemed “well-earned.” BOUND FOR MORE RE.

AVe tirade an early start next morning for Morere, hut before doing so took a quarter of an hour to enjoy the magnificent, view of Gisborne and the adjacent ocean that is to be seen from AVharerata summit. The atmosphere, was chili as we set off, but quickly the sun rose and within a few hours it -was a broiling hot day. AVe were still among the mountains, now climbing, now descending, but mostly the former. Going up the grade was so -steep that we could only ride a bit at a time, and going down the roads were so terribly bumpy that we had to constantly grip the handles with all our strength, and even at a slow pace the jolting was fearful. The clay roads had clogged with the last rains and, having just dried, were as hard -and rocky as a lot of bricks. (Cycling over these rough surfaces was a work of art, for if the rider took his eye off tho track just in front, though only for a moment, his front wheel would -probably get jammed in a rut, and before he could recover equilibrium', he might easily be thrown over a precipice. So we just sat down on our seats, with feet tightly jamming the -back-pedalling brakes, hung on grimly to the handlebars, and hoping the chain would not break with' the tremendous strain, we jolted our way down the hill. Of

course, we covered the ground at a fair pace, but coasting under such circumstances was very trying, and we were not altogether sorry when the bottom was reached and wc had to start to climb the next lull. Oil we went, ever forward, until suddenly I was amazed to discover some road niet-al, -and, sure enough, wo found the last mile or two into Morere was well paved with good, rocky metal. It provided a beautiful surface, enabling us to coast down the ■hill into the hot springs township at a merry pace, and in the pleasure of the last bit we almost forgot our former hardships. AN EXQUISITE SCENE.

Tho view from the hill-top looking into, Morere constitutes one of those charming landscapes that are sucih a feature of New Zealand scenery; hilt the host sight of all was -provided as we walked through a leafy glade from the hotel to the springs. A narrow path winds its way through the native bush for -a matter of half-a-mile, and its delicious coolness on this hot summer’s day viis- -positively ‘luxurious. So dense is the bush that only a few of the sun’s fiercest rays peered through tho -branches and cast shadows amongst the foliage, las we made, our way alongside a rippling little brook with icy cold water that runs merrily along the little vale. -Such growth of ferns! I have seen -a good deal of native bush, but never have I seen such superb ferns, some of the tree varieties standing u-p more than thirty feet. At the end of this delightful stroll were the springs, and it did not take xis long to- vinfjlow in first- one and then another of the baths. I sampled them •ail, and. quickly the stiffness of tired muscles vanished and — -hey, presto! I was -a new man again. AVe lingered longingly in the luxurious hot baths, but- -finally had to tear ourselves away and made for N-uhaka, where the annual Agricultural Show was in progress. There we stayed until five o’clock, when we again mounted our iroii steeds and set the wheels whiffing for AVairoa. NUHAKA TO AVAIROA. This wins a two hours’ run which, though only providing two small hill's and one of a fair height, included as many bumps as one would reasonably expect to get in a week’s riding. For over half the journey the clay boulders were of the toughest variety, and seemed to -be Laid in such -a manner as to provide the most extreme form of unevenness. AVe were indeed glad to find ourselves finally at the top of the hill overlooking AVairoa, and greatly enjoyed the run down and the spin 011 the flat before getting right into the town. ißy this time it was just past seven o’dock, and a firstckiss meal at the AVairoa hotel, where we put up, was thoroughly appreciated. In this connection I might add that Air George Oman knows precisely how to make tourists feel comfortable, mud being an ex-Gisborncite himself, anyone coming from this end seems to get- special attention. Saturday morning .was spent op business in the (Southern town, and shortly after two o’clock we sef out for the return jpurnev to Gisborne,' choosing this time the Tiniroto route. It may be ns well to mention that a howling gale was blowing clouds of dust through the streets, and as the wind was in our teeth, the outlook was anything hut cheering. AA’o Towered our handlebars -as low as they would go, tied waistcoats and cctots to our bicycles, and, with noses nearly touching the front tires, set out for a steady grind. It -was like pushing against a brick wall, but still we plugged along, and made steady, if not rapid, progress. Fortunately tho raids were in fine condition, -and after travelling some miles we -got out of the worst of the wind and the ride became really enjoyable. AVe had spent an hour in -Frase-rtown and were now cycling along as pretty a route as could be found in any country. Up and down hills, by no means steep, we were always in sight of tho AVo iroa river, which, for its charm and peaceful beauty, has no superior in the Dominion. Mile after mile it follows ■ a tortuous course, its great volume of water being fringed by willows and native foliage with a -picturesque background, of hiils or cultivated fiats. After a while we left the river, much to our regret, and soon found ourselves getting amongst steeper hills again, but their severity was tempered by the knowledge that we would shortly arrive at the Te Reinga falls. It -was furthermore alleged that -we would till ere discover an orchard of cherry trees loaded down with fruit. • MARVELLOUS TE REINGA.

Towards the close of the afternoon, \Ve came- to a sharp declivity, which leads to the falls, wind it was as well that a sign -post indicated their whereabouts, for it -would otherwise bo easy to pass them -by. Truly it would he -a calamity to make the journey without witnessing this marvellous and beautiful spectacle. A broad, calm, flowing river wonders peacefully through a valley, no signs of rapids or any other disturbing element -being -discernible. Nearing tho falls. it spreads out o-ver ia wide area, looking as -placid as the smoothest of lakes. The only outlet is through a narrow cutting, -and through this the converging waters must pass. Again they spread out, but this time it is over a flat, rocky bottom with a slope so great that the water races down. Over this rocky table the river tears along for about fifty yards, suddenly falling over the edge with a- sheer drop o-f sixty o-r seventy, feet- into a narrow gorge. There is a great volume of water even at this time of the year, and as the huge, body is poured

over the predipice into the basin below it is churned into milky foam and sends up spray like, clouds for hundreds of feet the while it roars like thunder.

One of the special features of the Te Reinga falls is the fact that despite their immensity one can safely approach sufficiently close to obtain a ■perfect view of this great .achievement- of Nature. Climbing down the rocky slope we were almost at -a level with the bottom of the falls -and stood ■fascinated at the grandeur and wondrous beauty of it all. The sun was just setting behind a distant hill, and as it shone on tho falling waters, making some look like a perpetual stream of shimmering crystals and leaving the denser mass u- dull 'leaden color hurling itself down with gloomy, sullen determination, we were provided with just those vivid - contrasts that even Nature will supply only accasionally. It was awe-inspiring to stand -bareheaded and wonder at the tlnindol'ous roar and tho whirling waters lashed into demoniacal furySbeibrefthcy finally passed iat a break-neck speed aJlong the gorge, for it seems that in such moments only does one realise the insignificance of the centuries. of human achievement as compared with one single example of the work that is going on and bus gone on for millions of years in the ordinary evolution of Nature. There are in the world falls on ia much larger scale than those at Te Reinga, but .there are surely few in which both grandeur, picturesqueness and accessibility are so' happily blended. I had almost- .forgotten to mention that -whilst approaching the falls We had discovered Mr. Harry Adair and party camping by the wayside, and we were not allowed to continue our journey without accepting his hospitality in the shape of a cup of tea <and refreshments. -The cherries, I may add, proved a myth so far as my experience was concerned, though my mate, pursuing -the matter with greater diligence, discovered a tree with some under-sized and rather bitter fruit growing alongside the river. BOUND FOR TINIROTO.

Leaving Te Reinga with very little of daylight left, we hurried on to make Tiniroto that night. The route became mountii-inou-s, and there was any amount of climbing to be done, but- the surface of the road -was nothing like so bumpy as it had been on the IMorero side, -and we were consequently able to make our way along with some degree of comfort.' This seemed to bo the region of the mountains, for in every direction the ranges stretched as far as the eye could reach. In its own wfay it was very beautiful, and with the cool air of the evening to refresh -us the journey was by no means -unpleasant. Now and again wo would pass a farmhouse, but -population is sparse in these -parts, and the chief accompaniments as -wc passed along were the incessant baa-ing of thousands of sheep, varied occasionally by the peculiar cry of the tui a.s that'native bird set her house in order for the night. Gradually the lust rays of the sun were lost behind the Mils, and- we were left to plod along by moonlight, and glad enough'wc were when somewhere about eight o’clock; we drew up at Air. Cooper’s hotel. THE LAST CLIAIB. Hero we spent a very comfortable night, and after breakfast- next morning set off for home. AA'e did not make a particularly early start, and already the heat of the sun was sufficiently strong to make the hills seem steeper than they really were. AVe were -warned beforehand that thero was -a solid climb for the next eight or ten miles to Paraklmapa, and certainly the prophecy was fulfilled to the letter. Mile after mile we pushed our pedalls or trudged on foot. Now and again would come a slight descent hut this was always followed with compound interest by another -and a longer ascent. AA r c passed some buggies on the way, and the horses apparently did not -find the going by any means easy, as I noticed the passengers, Qiad to get out .to walk so as to ease the horses’ work. For several hours we plugged ahead thus and at last were rewarded bv getting to tho highest point. Here we dismounted, and left the road for ia- few chains to get the best possible view. It was truly a wonderful outlook that met our gaze as we stood on the summit- of Parakana-pa. AVe could see the whole of Gisborne lying apparently at our feet, as veill as thousands of acres of country and the ocean.

By road this -place is some 25 to 30 miles from -Gffiborne, but as the crow flies it does , not look more than about ten. After this inspection of our -destination we set out to moke AVaerenga-a-kuri for dinner. There were still some hills to be climbed, but -having surmounted the highest point tOie balance was in our favor; in other words there wlas much more coasting down than pushing up. Some of the descents -were ever good -surfaces- and thoroughly enjoyable, so that we commenced to eat up tlie miles with gratifying celerity. It was just dinner-t-inie when we reached the AVa er eng a - a-lcu ri. hotel, -and here we found another Mr. . Cooper, an uncle of mine host of Tiniroto, who saw that wc (Were wdll attended to. A GOOD FINISH.

Without unduly loitering aye commenced the last stage of 18 miles into town, and I want to put on record hero that a more enjoyable ride could scarcely be obtained on a bicycle. It is nearly -all downhill, and -as the wind was behind we had nothing to do but pedal. In fact oven this exert ion was spared us for several miles, for coming down the long hill known as Gentle Annie, which drops into Patutaln, we had ia delightful piece of coasting. The surface of tho -road was perfect, and all we had to do was to rest slightly on .the back-pedalling brake -and “let her go.” It was a real consolation- for troubles deft behind. -Once at the bottom we had -a pleasant, if uneventful, run into town, which! we reached in ample time to -get a bath ,and change before tea-time. Summarising the trip -I i-must confess that the predictions of my friends, though not wholly justified, wore in -part confirmed. The journey -is a most -arduous one, and should not be undertaken unless the cyclist is -a really good rider -and is in first-class condition. Ho must also bo equipped with a machine, that will stand tho roughest wear, or a serious- Occident may result,from this -lack of caution. In this respect both - Mi\ Anderson and myself were very fortunate, as

there was no trouble of any kind with either of our machines. AVe must be counted lucky also, inasmuch as no rain fell to reduce the clay ibricks to a- cloggy, impassable mass. For the rest, it may be said that so far as we were concerned the trip was -a most interesting and on the whole an enjoyable one, as it will be for anyone else who observes the- points to which I have drawn attention, and has equally good luck in regird to weather.