AN EAST COAST JOURNEY.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXVII, Issue 2500, 13 May 1909, Page 2

AN EAST COAST JOURNEY.

NOTES BY THE WAY.

(Contributed by “The Wanderer.”)

Surprisingly little is known, by the majority of residents in Gisborne, of the East Coast district northwards from this port. The writer had a trip as far as Port Awanui recently and, given fine weather, a similar journey at any time, but preferably in summer, cannot fail to be of much interest. It was the first occasion on which I had been any distance up the coast from Gisborne after several years residence here, and, notwithstanding the rather gloomy references to muddy roads, precipitous cliffs, and dangerous rivers, made by friends prior to my departure, I sot out one afternoon on my mission in high spirits, and filled with the heroic desire “to go, to see, to conquer.” All was plain sailing for the first few miles, and on leaving the road a delightful stretch of the Wainui beach affords the opportunity, which is speedily grasped by those who know what is in store, to make the best pace one can. After travelling over another small hill, passing the old site of the Okitu Bacon Factory, and traversing another stretch of beach, I arrived at the foot of the Tatapouri hill. A steep winding climb, and an equally steep and tortuous descent, brought me to the Tatapouri hotel, situated right at the foot of the hill and v close to the beach. In the past, Tatapouri, a handy distance from town, has been largely patronised by Gisborneites as a holiday resort, but since the erection of the new hotel at Pakarae, the majority of holi-day-seekers travel the extra nine miles to spend their time there. The going is good, when the tide favors one, all along the beach from Tatapouri to Pakarae, leaving Whangara, with its school and Native settlement, a short distance inland on the left. There is one rather dangerous spot, known as the Tapuwai rocks, where the beach approaching a concrete bridge is thickly studded with low, round-topped rocks, rendering very possible the question of a slip. The bridge itself is, in wet weather, very slippery, and numerous accidents of a minor nature have occurred to vehicles there recently. Shortly after leaving Tatapouri, Turehan homestead can be seen nestling in a cluster of trees close to the beach. The new bridge at Pakarae was completed, and when I was there workmen were engaged in forming the approaches on either side. The bridge, although not yet officially opened, is now being used for regular traffic,. and it is a great boon to travellers, inasmuch as they have no longer to suffer the inconvenience, and _ at times difficulty, of fording the river. The new. hotel is a most handsome structure, beautifully fitted and furnished, and in the season Mr Shaw was besieged with visitors seeking comfort and recreation. It was at Pakarae that I made the first mistake of my journey. Rain was threatening, and it was past five o’clock in the afternoon, and allured by the prospect of company the greater part of the way to Tologa, I decided to go on instead of remaining for the night. Later on, but too late to repine, I bitterly regretted my action. Rain fell in torrents and by the time we had completed the long and wearisome climb to the top of the Poutae hill,, it was pitch dark, and a howling wind was driving the rain right into our faces. Here my companion suddenly stopped and announced his intention of leaving- the road, and taking a. short cut through the paddocks to his place a few* miles further on. From my point of view' this was an absolute disaster, hut, after receiving the most minute instructions as to the road, and an injunction to look out for the turning up to Tologa Hill, I was once more alone. Blindly groping my way dow r n the hill, with a steep face of country to the left, and a sharp fall on the other side, I breathed a sigh of relief when I at length reached the beach and saw Tologa Hill looming up dimly in the distance. “Look out for the turning up Tologa Hill” was still ringing in myears, and as far as the darkness permitted i did “look out,” but no trace of any road or turning could I find, until after three-quarters of an hour’s searching and wasting a box of matches I decided to try my luck by branching up in the direction which looked the least precipitous, and fortunately I discovered that I was on the “road A Another stiff climb brought me to the top of the hill and from here I could see the lights of the town twinkling in the distance. Making as good pace as possib’e down the hill I eventually arrived at Tologa, after making what I afterwards learned was a common mistake, in taking a wrong turning near the sheepyards. Tired, wet, and starving,’ the wants of both man and horse were, despite the fact that it was nearly midnight, attended to by Host Murphy, who- made me extremely comfortable. . . After a good night’s rest, and-with the pleasure of the company of Mr W. F. Sinclair, I set out eprly for Tokomar u, but before leaving had a look round VTologa, which township, from all appearances, is flourishing, many new buildings having been erected of recent years. Chief amongst these is the hotel, a splendid house, well and comfortably furnished, and quite equal, if not superior, to the best of our local hotels. For a few miles out of Tologa the roads are comparatively good, and I was greatly struck with the possibilities of the district from an agricultural point of view. From town lip to this point the country is more suitable for grazing purposes, but, in the vicinity of Tologa there are acres upon acres of beautiful flat, fertile country, eminently suitable for cropping, but which is being a’lowed to waste, comparatively speaking, for grazing cattle and sheep. The road runs for some distance alongside the picturesque Uawa river, the lower reaches of which offer fine opportunity for boating, and across the river is situated the racecourse, some three miles from the township. Nine miles out is the boundary of the Cook and Waiapu counties, and further along the road is bordered by a magnificent piece of bush containing some valuable timber, mostly yellow pine. A good deal of timber has already been taken from here, and I understand that a sawmill is being installed there shortly. With the incessant rain that had fallen, the roads were in an .awful condition, making progress very slow. Houses ere conspicuous by their absence, with the exception of a feiv Maori whares and O’Shea’s accommodation house midway to Tokomaru. The road iruns inland all the way, and several deep creeks and small rivers are crossed by means of really fine big bridges, infinitely superior to the structures of a like nature in the Cook County. More hills climbed and more descents negotiated, at length brought mo in sight of Tokomaru, which is a rather straggling township, comprising tho usual store*. -'no—' b. *»ost oflV". and wth Ac hotel rA 1 ir/’. "'"n “ right out of ihy tc.vn half a ini-<3 fur-

ther on along the bcacli. Still further on, at the northern end of the bay, is the site for the now freezing works, an undertaking which is going to be or immense benefit to sheepfarmers on the Coast. Well sheltered, and with a tiny natural harbor, with plenty of water, tho site appears to bo an eminently suitable one for tho new project. There is a remarkable similarity in the scenery along the coast line, which is a succession of steep ragged bluffs, and numerous bays running in at regular intervals. The road from Tokomaru, as indeed is the road all the way, is hilly and when I travelled along it, any pace other than walking, was absolutely impossible, owing to thick, heavy mud, in many p’aces up to the horses girths. Townsfolk have little idea what the settlers of the coast have to put up with in this direction, and occasionally in winter the roads are in such a ’condition as to render them simply impassable for either horse or vehicle traffic. Four miles this side of Waipiro are tho To Puia springs and Government accommodation house. The house itself is rather an old building in considerable disrepair, but tho proprietors do all in their power towards the comfort of travellers, while the hot springs, of which there are several of varying temperatures, are most invigorating and refreshing. It is an ideal spot to spend a holiday, but unfortunately is most difficult of access in anything but fine weather. Waipiro is a compact little township, and when I reached there it was in a tumult of excitement on the occasion of the annual race meeting. Along the beach, at the southern end, can be seen the overturned hulkof the schooner Aotea, wrecked there some years ago', a melancholy memento of a most unfortunate disaster.

From Waipiro to Tuparoa the road is practically unformed, and, although there is a clear bridle track, short cuts are the order of the day. I was fortunate in having the company of Constable Wales, who. is stationed at Port Awanui, and his knowledge of the country was of material assistance in shortening the journey. A winding creek on tins portion of the trip is crossed at least thirty times in a distance or twelve miles. Arriving at Tuparoa, 1 was made welcome by an old friend, Mi W. 11. Skitch, well and favorably known in cricketing* circles, both locally and in the South Island, and who fias taken over the hotel there recently. Ihe back country surrounding Tuparoa is said to bo most excellent land, but the number of creeks, unpassable through rain, and the condition of tho roads, prevented rue from seeing much of it. After a few days sojourn at Tuparoa, I commenced tho last stage of my outward journey, to Port Awanui. It v.as at this juncture that I made my second ore at mistake of the trip. There are two ways to go from Tuparoa, by the beach nine miles,. and by an inland “road” over twenty miles. Although warned that the title was unfavorable, I took the. beach route, but to my reoret as at times I had to scramole amono-st rocks, with the water up to the saddle flaps, and with an occasional wave sending showers of spray over me. However, it was too late to turn back, and not knowing what worse i. -’glu be in store, I pushed on as Tapidly as possible and after some rather exciting episodes, I arrived at Port ; Awanui soaked to the skin, with a mixture of both salt and fresh water. Through the kindness of that genial sportsman, Mr D W • Duff, I was quickly provided with dry clothes, and, in the comfort of a welcome fire, soon forgot the troubles of the road. Port Awanui is a peculiar little township, containing two hotels, and when tlm tide is full, it is impossible to get from one to the other except by scrambling over high hills. The Government Buildings, Post Office and Police Station are situated on the top of one ot ’these, right above the Rose Hotel in a most awkward and inaccessible position. What strikes the visitor most is the absence of. houses, not a single dwelling being visifile from the sea front, rurther”back, however, there are a number of small settlements in the Waiapu Valley, a most fertile district, dotted here and there with patches under intense cultivation. --The dangerous Waiapu river, which has the unwelcome notoriety of claiming a life every year, can also be seen from here, and the work of bridging this is one which is most urgently required, not alono on account of the danger to life, but also by reason of the serious inconvenience to travellers and others, who are frequently held up on either side for a week, waiting for the flood waters to subside. After spending a couple of days at Port Awanui I commenced the return journey, which was accomplished under more pleasant conditions, the ram having ceased and the sun shining out brilliantly. The route is most picturesque in places, with the hush clad hills, with their wealth of many-hued foliage on one hand, and on tho other, the sea stretching away as far as the eye can reach. There are hundreds of thousands of acres of magnificent country waiting to be opened up and sett ed, and one cannot help being impressed with tho vast possibilities Oi the district. At present, however,, the settlers are undoubtedly laboring under many disadvantages, chief among which of course, is the want of good loads. The Waiapu County Council is doing its best to improve the existing conditions, hut something on a larger scale is urgently needed. The Coast bays have, of course, got a fairly regular steamer and sailing vessel service, but as the work of discharging and loading has to be done by means of surf boats, this is not altogether dependable and it sometimes happens that for a fortnight or even more there is no possibility ft. the settlers obtaining even the necessaries of life. “Give its good roads is their cry, “and when we have them you will see the Coast go ahead, and a visitor to the district can hardly fail to agree with this view of the great future in store for the East Coast.