A WOMAN’S LETTER.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXVII, Issue 2574, 7 August 1909, Page 4 (Supplement)

A WOMAN’S LETTER.

A GAY SEASON. / CLOTHES AND THE WOMAN. 1 LONDON, W., May 21. The correspondent of the Melbourne “Age” writes as follows under the above date:— , The real occupation at the moment is clothes. Toilettes cannot be turned out quickly enough. We have by no moans seen the end of the Directoire .modes. They will last right through the*season, but there is steadily coming under consideration the Merovingian or Moyen •Ago style of gown. I saw recently at th. a inner of tne Stage Society a sister of the ]ate Aubrey Beardsley in a green cuirass ot net and beads made to fit tightly over the hips., worn with a soft crape skirt made with a good deal of drapery, her auburn hair and soft pale skin making her look just as if she had stepped out of the pages of a child’s fairy tale. And at St. James’s Theatre a girl was wearing a cuirass of silver sequins with long fiat medieval sash worked on silver in sparkling paillettes, the skirt being of purple net heavily embroidered in silver, avorn over a green skirt; it was almost like a nautch dress. Miss Irene Vanbrugh in the same play, “The Thief,” recently revived, wore a curious gown of soft pink damask made with a square tunic trimmed with old silver galon. There was a .silver belt worn hardly above the usual ivaist line, and some more silver and pink gauze on the bodice. There is no 'doubt that these picture gowns are fast Coming in ; tire only thing is that you want .many gowns if you go in for this kind of dressing, as the eye soon tires of a costume effect, and if it becomes as common, as the Directoire all women will seem dressed alike.

Mrs Asquitli, the wife of the Prime Minister, is ju.it going through an unpleasant hour with the press because, • a ho invited a French costumier to bring some of Ins newest models to her house, 10 Downing-strcct, the official nf the Premier, .vsiPetlCG f eshibjFthbm.beAVC A lunthcoli. party of ladies. Mrs has rather a passion for doing 'eccentric things aucl thus this celebrat'eci partv has roused the ii'b of xhc ‘“Draper’s Record” and other publications dealing with the trade. Hie thing even got serious enough ior a question to be asked in the House of Commons as to the desirability of the Premier’s official residence being used as a place for the .display of French costumes. Mrs Asquith replied to the press saying it was merely a private party to see the models, consisting of her own personal friends. ‘However, the gowns were photographed, and 1 am able to describe them, They aic all three extremely simple, and are almost fourteenth century styles. One is copied almost entirely from, a religious habit, .made like a nun’s robe, with a high-waisted girdle tying the habit at the waist. The girdle, instead of being made of a knotted rope, is of silken cord, finished with heavy tassels Another gown is made with a draped tunic of spotted material, and fastened with three ornaments of cord, rather like fern-leaves, a thick cord and tassel at the waist, and tho gown opens over a guimpc of drawn silk, with a turndown lawn collar. No one is wearing high collars this season. The third gown is like a Grctchen, with a short high-waisted bodice, and skirt finely gathered on to this bodice, worn over a lawn (low-necked) guipure and half sleeves. The front of tne gown is laced with cords, and has tassels.

Very heavy jet fringe is being worn on the ends of the crepe do chine scarfs, and, indeed, metal fringes, aluminium trimmings, and silk fringes are immensely worn on everything. The straight lines of the gowns, tho edges of the drapery, and the long dalmatics all need some (weight at the edge to keep them in position.

The ultra-fashionable people will use these Moyen-age gowns m their country houses as tea-gowns, or for afternoon reception dresses. I cannot believe in their being. accepted by the general public in the way" the Directoire or Empire gowns have caught on. We "are face to face with the “tub frocks” for summer wear, and I expect if this lovely weather continues they will soon be in actual wearing.. It is curious to look them over and find how exactly in line they are. All of them are cut "in one piece, with wide trimmings of embroidery down the fronts, insertions on the tight sleeves between the tucks. If they touch the ground it is all they do; they are huilt for use, and to look trim and clean in the mornings. I think they will have a great vogue. Most of them have Peter Pan collars, with some neat tie finishing them at the throat. Blouses with one accord have .appeared with the turn-down collar and a perfect crusade against the high collar-band is now raging. In handsome materials the amount of embroidery used isextraordinary. One in deep blue is embroidered in the same colorings heightened with some copper and aluminium threads. The tunic bangs like a broad, straight panel back and front, instead of being shaped to cover tlie under robe, and these straight, lengths are embroidered heavily at the edges. The sides for the tunic are caught together with one loosely knotted band. There is a decided note in this year’s parasols, many of them have -very long sticks, wflich. is quite in character with Directoire modes, and are made of handsome chenc silk, trimmed with fringes. There arc also tiny, parasols with "a folding stick, like the Early Victorian sunshades, lined with color, edged with fringe, and used chiefly in motor ears, as they do not hold much wind,. One of the most curious things about -motoring is the fact that one may not put up one’s umbrella ! Shantung is being as much used as it, has been the last three seasons for coats and skirts. - They are made- up in the usual Directoire style, trimmed with thick, corded trimmings. A .shirt of fine white lawn is worn with them when one of the same,material has not been provided. The white things this year are too lovely fur -words. I have never seen such dainty white work in my life. Fine tucks, broderie An-glaise, and lace motifs are the changes on which many ideas are rung. All blouses are of tlie slip genus, made up of tucks and embroidery, but there are no frills except on' Peter Pan blouses. And all the sleeves are close-fitting. It is curious how few thin materials are used, owing, I suppose, to the domination of tlie Directoire gown, which, gives no serine to the art of the Jupon. rf n thin over-dress is worn the embroidery is placed upon, .the unclorW!•«.«. It shines through in a fascinating -a-ncr