THE LADIES’ WORLD.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXVII, Issue 2654, 9 November 1909, Page 3

THE LADIES’ WORLD.

LONDON FASHION NOTES

LONDON, Sept. 11. This week, the word “Paris” will probably appear frequently, for in London the fashion world is almost at a standstill, while from the French metropolis the correspondents who have been privileged to a peep behind the scenes, write long letters giving some idea of what is in store for us during the winter months •JUMPERS” The period approaches when New Zealanders will welcome cotton "jumpers”—in London we want them no more, though there is every likelihood that in thick woollens they will remain favorites. The name is that lately applied to- the all-in-one piece dress, belted in at the waist, the whole thing slips over the head, is buttoned up at the back of the bodice, and the wearer is dressed. All the thin unlined dresses have been made on the same principle, alp through'the summer; all have been without lining; many have had the waistline of Empire height, but now the waistline has descended to its proper position, tor which change everyone is full of gratitude.. There are very dainty “jumpers” made of pretty light voiles, with skirt set into stitched kilts, with bodice prettily draped cr crossed, and with attached waistbelt. A great many, are without yoke or sleeves, the idea being that’various sets of guimpes may be worn alternately and give variety. For house frocks these are- sure to be in request all through the winter, while for useful wear there is.no reason why the style should not be. carried out in serge and cloth. New Zealanders, however, will want cottons and muslins and linens- —at least, cne hopes they will need them; here we could quite well have done without anything light and airy save for about three weeks, spread over a,s many months at wide intervals. There lias been no real summer weather this year. FROM THE FRENCH CAPITAL. Now for some advance notes from Paris, as supplied by writers on the spot. Everything is going to be as elaborate as possible, but with a prevalent note of simplicity; for the elaboration of rich decorative effect is to express itself in'one bold emphasis or in a wellmanaged fabric. The contrast of velvet with every fabric is a good one, and it is used in the form of a very deep hem on a dress of heavy open net, rather of the type know as Russian net- some years ago. In conjunction with such a velvet-hemmed skirt will be worn a Russian blouse of velvet, faultlessly cut and fastened with r. ricblv-jewelled clasp at the waist, or slightly below the waist. The removal of the blouse-coat reveals the fact that a perfectly-cut Princess robe of net is worn beneath it, merely applied with velvet at the hem. The bodice is massed with soutache embroidery or with tlie rolled work known as macaroni. A favorite material with some of the best French designers seems to be coarse sacking, of which nuns’ dresses are made, and this accentuates what is described as the mediaeval tendency, which is the chief influence under which designers are now at work. This sacking material is called Bure, and is used for outdoor dresses and for tailor suits; in finer weights and weaves it is combined with velvet in the construction of rather attractive house drosses. Zibeline effects are also favored, and some .tasteful models are recorded as having been made of these.- In comparison with the robes collantes we shall take some little time to grow accustomed to the almost extravagant fulness to which dressmakers are beginning to treat us. EMBROIDERIES AND TRIMMINGS. One correspondent observes: “It is impossible to say too much about the splendours of the embroideries seen here (Paris). Designers are literally revelling in wonderful coloring, in rare combinations. Many modern embroidery workers ,are copying wonderiul antique- models;- • and-, have their. silks or linen threads dyed to the tone of the old designs. Although modistes declare that it is to be a quiet year, there is something underlying this expression, for the quiet tone of the season is embellished and serves merely to throw into relief the superb contrasts to he seen in some of the exclusive Paris h-ouses, whose models are not exhibited at all. Such sombre contrasts as brown and cerise, wrought the one into the other with a taste and skill beyond all praise, are to be observed. •• “The manner in which they are handling drapery suggests - rather the Roman toga, for I can describe tlie draping of gowns only by saying that the slart is cut somewhat long in front, it is slightly raised in order to give amplitude to the folds, and then it is swung round the figure and suddenly caught in a manner that i.s both a surprise and a delight.: There is. for instance, a full round cloak which resembles the mantle worn by officers in Italy, and the fine drap souple wli.cli composes it is rather like the material .used for that mantle. Once more the form of draping takes its hint from tlie Roman toga, for the immensely wide loose folds of the cloak are meiejy swung round the figures from right to left: and caught just below the collar. These cloaks, in white, brown, cream, <rold, or in any of the pale pastel tones, are really beautiful,-and they have the cachet of rare simplicity, besides pleasing the public in that they diffei entirely from the tight and closely-wrap-ped models that have been worn ot } a £ e On light cloth dresses there is apparently to be much decorative work. There are Indian shawl designs m soft drap cachemire, and a,s an edging. to such shawl dresses there will be long • silk and cord fringes. It seems that ■black satin is as smart as ever as trimming for almost any .material. Applied to coats it forms , long, tapering revers, which end four inches or so below the normal waist.