FASHION NOTES.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXIX, Issue 3195, 15 April 1911, Page 4

FASHION NOTES.

Yes, it has come to this at-last. YY T e have to make our own race- frocks, says an Australian paper. Everybody has been expecting it would, and lo! the “hew” dressmaker -has appeared on the scene in the person of the society girl, who is hustling to get her own dress ready for Easter, as well as one or two dresses fixed up for friends. YY ith such a rush of business all the regular workers have been unable to cope, and girls with clever brains and fingers are hard put to it to get done all they have to do before the gay season begins. There are some girls who are “absolutely 1.T.,” as HugliTe Pierpont says, when they start in to fix up an evening gown, while others, alas! can never achieve anything that has not a made-on-the-wearer appearance. Fine finish and clearly defined cut must be the marks of the new gowns, or else a dismal failure will be the lot of the rash person who essays to be one of the “new” dressmakers.

Already, and before we have seen any in actual wear, we are tired of the velvet suits. There is a rush, a. craze, a mania for braided velvet that will result in a sameness in the coming season, when we are all dressed as much alike as Mr. Noah and family out of a wooden ark. The velvet coat is cut quite short, which is a pity. To- start with, the tailored suit should have a coat long enough to sit down xipon. YMlvet has a Avay of resenting ‘being sat upon that slioavs itself quite soon. From a long coat the tails, Avhen depressed and flattened after a short but merry life at -bridge parties and matinees, can be cut, and a short coat aa-AI reveal a fresh-looking skirt, and: a neAV lease of life will be accorded the costume. But short coats acre the right thing, and AAdth them- come the finishing of Avide re vers or sailor collars. The sailor collars are often _ cutl in soft handkerchief silk in vivid color, contrasting with (that of the coat, and they are invariably hemstitched. A man’s silk handkerchief makes a good sailor collar for one of the new velvet coats.

Magyar is still the word to conjure with. All the sleeves are cut in one with the bodice, and wearers feel like a trussed fowl, unable to move their arms either up or forward. “Don’t do that, please madame,” the horrified modiste w-ill exclaim .when the customer, during fitting, tries to stick in a hat pin. “You are not meant to lift the arms in the new sleeves.” Hobbled as to the arms, is it any wonder we want barem skirts to allow at least some freedom of movement to our lower limbs ? Soft satin gowns veiled in silk net are trimmed with fur. We shall see the fur in bands around the arms and neck. As to colors, that already wellexploited combination of “Coronation” blue and black is still leading miles ahead of all competitors. Beaver hats trimmed with leather flowers and woodden beads, form the newest head-gear.

The manufacturer’s art has 'reached the acme of perfection in the latest examples of imitation caracule and Persian lamb. It is absolutely impossible to detect the difference between this and the genuine pelt at a distance, while a quite close inspection frequently leaves even an expert in doubt as to its true origin. This material is to be bought by the yard, in a wide, double-width quality, and can be induced to fashion wide straight stoles and big flat muffs of the most eovetable order, while, with a very little trouble, whole coats could be turned out with the utmost satisfaction.

The most fashionable milliners have been showing the “evening liat,” a. variety of the picture halt, wherein most beauty of line and coloring is to he seen. Rather unusual combinations of colors are to be seen in the richer evening hats, and also some strikingly bright shades. . A striking model was a large cloche in shape, over which iinrntoorange satin is moulded, though the under facing was of black velvet. The three full tips were in .burntorange shades. A large dent which will be seen at the side is, a new feature which many of the French hats now show, though it is placed variously, to suit the individual face. Besides hats as evening accessories the alms-bags of the season are conspicuous. They are “regular catchalls,” as someone has called them, and are made, as a. rule, of the most coatly brocade, or of silk or pale-toned kid beautifully embossed with gold-thread designs. They are fitted out to meet all sorts of emergencies, and include all the details of a small toilet-table. As a rule a fairly 'large mirror is embedded in one side of tlie bag, which is to be carried over the arms by means of long gold cords or 'ribbons. There is to be seen quite a sprinkling of military gold tassels upon the tailored velour and felt and ,fur hats. Many of them are given as their sole trimming a heavy gold crown cord, with a four-inch tassel (or two) drooping over the hair at the side.