IN MONTE VIDEO.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXIX, Issue 3241, 10 June 1911, Page 3

IN MONTE VIDEO.

AMONG PLAZAS AND BOULEVARDS

GLIMPSES OF SPANISH AMERICA.

A WEALTHY CITY.

(Specially written' for “The Gisborne Times” by E. N. Arnlit, formerly of Wellington..) There is not a great deal to attract a New Zealander in Monte Video, unless he be fond of studying the customs and people of Spanish America. The city, which is the capital of the republic of Uruguay, lias a, population of over 300,000, and its name is well enough known to New Zealanders as a port of call for steamers homeward bound. Its site is on the northern side of the River Plate estuary, at this point over ninety miles wide. One’s first impression is uncertain ; the extent of Monte Video cannot be gauged from the harbor view, and the visitor lias to push back from the water front for some distance before reaching the better-built parts of the city. Approaching from the south in the R.M.S. Tongariro, one rose at 4.30 a.m. to find the ship at anchor, in- calm water, and the darkness was broken by a long row of lights ahead. One bright point flashed in a brilliant glare at intervals—this was the lighthouse situated on top of the “mountain,” from which the city received its name, ivhen one of Vasco de Gama’s sailors exultdngly cried “Monte Video” (I see a mountain). It is a. broad-based conical elevation, about 600 feet in height. On returning to the deck an hour later, one was greeted bv a splendid sunrise oyer the South Atlantic: eight or nine large steamers lay around the vessel, and the city presented a'long level Hue of buildings ahead, the “monte” being the only raised land. The water was shallow and muddy,. Then a thick fog came rolling in from the Atlantic; numerous fog-horns boomed over the calm ‘tide, and the bell for-ard sounded continuously. Other ships groped and manoeuvred through tire gloomi, but it was a couple of hours before the last wisp had been dispelled by a strong morning sun. Once under way again, passengers soon bad clearer view of the “mountain,” and a large Spaniard with a fierce moustache (whom one took to be the pilot) having mounted the bridge the Tongariro fell; into a precession of steamers advancing towards the bahia, or harbour. INSIDE THE BREAKWATER, Beacons mark the channel for about a mile before the bahia is reached, as the Plate estuary is generally very shallow. Two long breakwaters in a semicircle from; the shore form an artificial harbour, whose entrance is about 200 feet wide On passing this, a large cluster of ships comes into view; they are nearly all at anchor, and include high-decked mail liners, British, French, German and Spanish steamers, malodorous tramps with sheep or cattle, sailing ships and broad-beamed cargo and passenger _ boats that had brought European immigrants to Buenos Ayres. Each is attended by lighters, by means of which all cargo is worked, Anchor was dropped, and within half- ' an-liour one had set foot on the fine stone quay along the waterfront of Monte Video—the first step ashore after three weeks at sea. It was a hot, brilliant day, and the white buildings almost shimmered along the quivering air, AROUND THE CITY. A New Zealander is at once struck by the foreign aspect of the city; names and signs (unless he knew Spanish) are unintelligible to him; the people are sallow, quick-eyed, and in many respects unlike those of his own country Two or three coastguards in naval uniform patrol the quay; and the streets are nearly all paved with large round: cobbles of a peculiar hardness. Across a jetty jutting ouit from the broad quay are two passenger vessels which ply to Buenos Ayres, 120 miles over the river. These are said to be owned by an English company, and maintain a nightlv service, the journey being performed in about twelve hours. On loavin- the gates adjoining the Custombouse (without being asked any inconvenient questions), the visitor lights upon several very narrow streets lined with wine stores and warehouses. One is surprised, when asking for the heart of the city, to find the thoroughfares not more than about twenty feet in ■width. Electric cars, operated by a German company, almost brush one’s coat when standing on the kerb. They have a. huge wooden frame in front for life-saving purposes, and travel over a single line at the left-hand side of the street. There'' is an atmosphere; of briskness and’energy about' the 'city, and the business Uruguayan, or Oriental, as he calls himself; appears to be alert and keen. ' AMONG THE PLAZAS. Through this congested part of the city, the way leads to the Calle de la 25 Mayo, or 25th of May street, one of the most important thoroughfares named after the day of secession' from Spam, and extending for about two miles north and south. Thenceforward a visitor observes that the city is laid out at right angles, and he has no difficulty in finding his way about Shops and splendid buildings line the way; cars clang and roar continuously; ragged newsboys shout the morning paper Just out at 10.30; business men read it as they hurry along, the street or sit over a cigar and olives at a cafe, whose wide open windows and doors adjoin the street.... Not many of the shops are large: the retail trade seems to be well distributed in all departments, but despite this the purchasing power of money is small when compared with average prices in New Zealand. Everyone about the business portion of the city, with the exception of a few beggars and urchins, was remarkably well-dressed. Between 10 a.m. and. noon, the whole city is thoroughly astir, as a large section of the population retires shortly after lunch for a couple of hours’ siesta. Along the Calle de 25 Mayo are four large plazas or squares of imposing appearance. They provide admirable breathing spaces for the city, which—it should be remembered- —is on the latitude of Sydney. Each plaza is well provided with grassy mounds, trees, and artistically disposed flower beds, while the footwalks are often laid with varicoloured tiles in patterns—one of numerous: indications of. a taste for the ornate and showy. At a good distance from the shore the main streets widen to fully a chain, and are. lined on each side by avenues of trees and tall massive buildings of elaborate .design. Evidence of British interests is not wanting; there are English banks, a. bi-weekly newspaper printed in English, a hospital, educational and other institutions.; SOME QUAINT SIGHTS Named in commemoration of Uruguay’s' Day of Independence, the principal square in the city is the Plaza Independence, and the traffic round

its sides is incessant. Mules draw quaint-looking vehicles with large wheels and ta.'ll framework sides, while bells hanging from the animals’ necks tinkle as ; the cart lumbers and' rattles over the cobbles. Sitting on the back of on© of the team near the vehicle is a driver whose countenance could hardly be described as benign. He. looks villainous under a slouch hat, and wears big baggy breaches and a red shirt. His language as be addressed a slow team must have been highly picturesque, and he chewed the whole time—-maybe a green cigar. He was a thorough type of the dare-devil and hot-blooded ran.cnmaii of Spanish America. The hard cobbles toil on the horses about the city they are sore at the withers and are generally undersized, with thini leigs. A curious sight was that of a small children’s . cart being drawn round the square- by a sheep- in harness. The animal’s back was thickW clothed with wool, and the lie-ut of the day must have been triyng for the beast. The cart was run for profit by a youth. , Facing the Plaza. Constitution is the cathedral—a drab coloured pile in stone, surmounted by a lofty dome. Its somewhat plain, exterior belies the gorgeou-s----ness and ornate so lend our of its- internal decorations and appointments.* Here is lavished enormous wealth in beautiful paintings on the walls and ceilings, high massy pillars of marble, soai’ing arches, silver candelabras. imposing altars- and images, and all the. other accessories of Roman Catholic worship in a wealthy community. A BIRD’S EYE VIEW.

On thei Plaza de Libertad, which itself surmounts a slight elevation in the heart of the city, the writer observed a spiral tower leading to a high platform above the flat roof of an American building. As the edifice was not complete, it took some time before lie could make two foremen understand that an Englishman wanted to climb to the top. Signs and gestures, together with the aid of a keen-witted Spanish boy, had the desired effect-, and soon one was in the lift. The height almost made one giddy, and that spiral staircase iseemed. -interminable-. At last the. round iron platform was reached, and the whole of Montevideo and its environs. was spread beneath. The panorama was not so varied and picturesque as that to- be obtained from the Post Office tower in Martin Place, -Sydney, but it was indeed magnificent. To the east were- the sea-coast and the blue waters of the Atlantic, mergihg into the muddy tide or the Plate ; to the north were rolling downs and estancias, with nearer gardens and parks, stately homes and the seats of opulent traders and professional men; to the- west i was again the coast of Uruguay, along - which a splendid broad drive led out of the city and motor-cars, taxi-cabs and hansoms rapidly sped to and fro ; while towards the south -was the harbor with its forest of masts and funnels, and . a countless, flotilla, of launches, barges and attendant craft. Across the bay ' was the Mount Video, and out on the Plate several tramps lay at anchor.Within a radius of a mile- all round were domes and theatres, spires and steeples, plazas and gardens, lawns and avenues, and' 1 a wilderness of roofs. Restful patches of bright green, -enfolding clusters of many-colored blooms, agreeably diversified the panorama. One’s eyes wandered over a thoroughly ] modern city. Immediately beneath, were j broad tiled walks across which people crawled like ants, symmetrical gardens and a balcony on the western face of i the Pla-za, having terraces of waterplants preserved in vivid green bv a ; nerennial stream feeding successive basins. Two admirable boulevards' intersected at the Plaza-—the Avenida General de Rondeau and the Calle- de-' la j Juli. both being adorned by stately rows : of -elms on each side. OUT TO THE PRADO.

Orientals have prides in their prado or botanical gardens. The car ride occupies about twenty minutes, and along the way are fine mansions and private residences built of stone. Near the gardens some structures were being erected for a forthcoming exhibition, ineluding an amphitheatre. There were diadems and crowns of blooms; immaculate walks, stately avenues; lagoons bridged by stone. arches and kissed by sweeping willows. In the fernery was a riotous profusion of green vegetation, culled from the remotest parts of South America. Two huge Amazonian plants each had a leaf about six feet in length, spreading upward from the trunk. Here it was that the writer and a friend had an experience which illustrates the good nature often met with among colonial Spaniards. Afternoon tea having been served on the lawn, our charges amounted to 36 centesimos. Only 7 centesimos in Uruguayan money could be mustered between us. We offered the properietor a 2s piece and tried to show him it was worth 45 centesimos. But to no purpose ; he was a big muscular Oriental, and lie ■ ‘'no comprend.” ...’ Having worked on some figures with pencil and paper, he shook his "head and pushed the coin'f'froan him. Here was a : deaddeclcy'ahd thought from his serious attitude that*he-would ring up the vigilanti. We had to he hack at the ship in an hour and a half, and were four miles from the quay. Imagine our relief when, he handed hack the coin and waved his hands with a sort of friendly blessi .g as though to say: “Be welcome to the refreshment, and go your way. my good mends.'’ Other aspects of life in the capital of Uruguay may form, the subject of a subsequent article.