THE WORLD OF FASHION.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXIX, Issue 3372, 11 November 1911, Page 4

THE WORLD OF FASHION.

CAULFIELD CUP DAY.

THE GOWNS AND THE HATS

(Fashion has been to the Orient for some of the most pleasing effects of late, and the dull, subdued richness-or i Persian coloring was everywhere in evidence at the Caulfield Cup meeting (says a writer in the “Age”). Much of this effect was gained, by the veiling of the most vivid embroidery with grey or black ninon. A great many white gowns had diaphanous Magyar blouses embroidered 1 in true Persian fashion in crescents'of dull pink, blue, grey, gold, silver, and mauve. It is the year of embroidery, and never has so much hand work been employed in the construction of comparatively simple gowns. Deep rovers provide an opportunity for the display of a great deal of decorative needlework. Effect is the objective where all dress trimmings are concerned. The only very fine work is provided by Chinese or Japanese embroideries. All that is modern and fashionable and French is distinctive rather than intricate. Practically all the most popular embroidery is done in a long, flat stitch, a quite recent invention which very successfully reproduces the effect of real Persian work. There is an Old-World look about many of the sheeny, shot silks. The green, blue and gold of a beetle’s wing were combined on several of the most beautiful gowns worn on Saturday while blues and purples, magentas and greens recalled the -fabrics beloved of our great-grandmothers. The wearing of ia great deal of white and black was accountable for much very vivid coloring in the matter of accessories. All sorts of reds and blues were also worn with black and white coats and skirts, and for extraordinary vividness these colors have never been surpassed. In Saturday’s sunshine they had a quality comparable only with the silks of the jockeys as they shot past the stand. Skirts are both .fuller and longer than they were last year—which is by no means saying that they are either full or long. Nevertheless they admit of rational action, and never in the memory of woman have skirts been so comfortable, always provided they have boon cut by someone who understands the art of skirt production.

FAR FROM THE NOVELIST’S DREAM.

The gowns worn by the best dressed women were without exception narrow, but very rarely unduly 60. Nearly all were short waisted, and very smart indeed is the rather full short waisted coat, with its perfectly plain and well fitted basque, when worn in conjunction with the panelled skirt. Never have these coats and' skirts shown such infinite variety. They are made of every material from white, Chinese silk and heavy tan lace to the most respectable variety of summer tweed. The hip length coat was enjoying much favor on Saturday. Shorter coats were verv well represented, but practically no longer ones. Even coats and skirts entirely made of lace followed the severe tailored styles. The lace and linen, the lace and muslin, and the lace and lawn goods were of an entirely noval nature —as far as Australia is concerned. Now we know what is actually meant by the lingerie frock —that much-talked-of item we have hitherto believed to be represented by the white embroidered muslin in one of its many guises. A typical lingerie frock is jof white muslin, with a bolero, a panel, or a wide fret flounce of the heavier lace, or solid open work embroidery. A cream linen, with a tunic deeply bordere-d with strong colored guipure, may also be cited as Typical, while yet another very popular kind of lingerie frock contains lace : nd several kinds of embroidery. Nearly every very successful lingerie frock was seen to be worn.'over a close-fitting Princess slip of satin, so the simple muslin frock of the male novelist’s dream is quite as far off as ever. Among the material finding most favor on Saturday foulard and ?urnk ranked very high. Silk, been, and cotton poplins were mostly seen a 1 lied to the heavy laces to which much all-u----sion has already been made, w lie tha white crepe family, from- fine repo do chine to a dilghtfully soft make of cotton crepe, more than h id o 1 eir cv.p. Nor must marquiset'ie and ninon lm overlooked in a season in which the veiled gown is queening it so bravely. THE CROWN OF GLORY. Hats, like gowns, were very irequently veiled, and some of the very newest were in brightly patterned tarns, over which ipale grey, blue or era ncolored ninon had been very tightly drawn. Flowers and feathers-comb’n ed to trim many of the best of these On many of the flower-trimmed hats ox_ traordinary ingenuity was displayed in the adjustment of the flowers. Veritable branches of roses stood up eiffh teen inches at least above sonic hats, while wisteria and other drooping flowers were arranged like -plumes on yet other hats. Very trim straw, trimmed with two or three very large pheasant feathers, in a .variety of color?,. the feathers being held in p]a o w wAh a buckle or cabuchou, showing the most gorgeously barimfic kinds ■ f N-ads work. This same magnificieiit h* s d work is frequently repeated to the hand bag. Two special features in fashions me; one constantly. The first of tnese was the cravat, which displays the daintiest and most exquisite variety ol muslin, lace, and embroidery. It may be a small thing below the- '•< liar at the neck, a large pleated fri'l or a deep and softly falling affair fas -tiled at the neck and falling to the w list. There is no lace or no embroidery too fine to put into the cravat —a fact that was very frequently demonstrated on Saturday. The other special feature concerns the single rover arranged on the right hand side of the coat On this again heavy laces, s'-'id embroidery. and magnificent silk and bead work wero displayed. In practically every instance the hand bag repeated the color note of the other accessories of the gown, and the large majority were not only : eautif-’lly made, but of very imposing proportions. The sabretache bag s still first lavoiite, and there seemed literally no limit on Saturday to ihe materials made i«;, in this popular military style.