OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXIX, Issue 3393, 8 December 1911, Page 7

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

HEAVY VERSUS LIGHT -FABRICS

fFIiOM OUE OWN COiIRIiSCUNDENT.' BRADFORD, Oct. 27. The old-fashioned blue serge ha,s been largely worn during the past season, and no fabric is more “dressy” or serviceable. One cannot waik out on Sunday in any city or provincial town, or for that matter a -country village, in Great Britain without seeing a multitude of the gentler sex clotlied m tailor made serge costumes, and tho sensible yet artistic adornment adds gracefulness and dignity to the fabric. Hero wo have a most important outlet for yarns spun from South Australian wools, and we are satisfied that so long as coating yarns are popular, there wuf not be a great deal wrong with merino wools. We are told tlnvt for next season the fine, soft handling fabrics made from the fleece of the merino are to be prime favorites. H so. well and good; but 1 know for a positive fact that (Scotch tweeds are being boomed for all they are- worth, and the rougher Cheviot goods which are being made for this winter mean greater support being given to crossbreds than merinos. Of course, it is largely a question of price, and a change in popular fashion. All the same when one- comes t-o spring and summer fah-ric.s, something lighter, smarter, and more in harmony with the season is always worn. There is general agreement that the late glorious summer administered a .rather severe blow to the heavier fabrics made out of crossbred wool, everyone both at home and on .the Continent, as well as in America, being desirous of being clod in the lightest garments possible. The late summer no doubt cleared many shelves of light fabrics which had “stuck,” and consequently both retail and wholesale bouses are making preparations -for renewing their stocks of those fabrics which are always worn during the summer season. Tho factlias never before been mentioned, but I am persuaded, and the idea is confirmed by clog© observers in the textile world, that garments are being worn to-day m England which are lighter in weight, than formerly. Tho question arises, Why? Simply because there is a more universal wearing of “all wool” .garments, “unshrinkable” vests and pants being greatly in favor. If a person is warmly -clad in good I

under gpnnniL* it stands to sense tiia! he (.lees not want to be burdened wit! he.ivy clothes, consequently we ore finding to-day far more people wearing I-i * to 16 oz fabrics t-lian IS to SO oz wiiic! were popular weights 5 i-o 10 years ago This is a move, the importance oi which has been overlooked by many engaged in handling wool. Those outside the pale of spinning and manufacturing may not perhaps know but iu the production, of thin, but good fabrics it is absolutely necessary to use good quality v.ools. l-et me hete say straight out that any kind | of rubbish and ■’muck'" can he spun into a thick yarn; in fact. I have seen anything from floor cloths upward' pulled into niungo and shoddy, and then spun into five to seven skein weft j which is the thick mss of medium string. Although this shoddy material has been woven with cotton warps into thick handling fabrics, which an ignorant public would think would Ik; good wearing material, the opposite is the case, and it is a great fallacy on tho part of anyone to believe that- because a cloth is thick it possesses properties for retaining heat- and stand hard wear. Give me a thin, cloth made . of all wool far before a. thick fabric made of shoddy, for I am positive the former will retain the heat of the bo«y better and stand infinitely mure knocking about. This fact brings me back to what 1 want to say, namely tliar only good »00l can be used in the production of these light weight fabrics, and here wo have the explanation for tin* recent big demand for fine merino wool. Spinners and manufacturers are now preparing for the spring and summer trade of 1912, and although the orders in hand are nothing near so extensive as they were a year ago, yet on the whole mills generally are busy with the exception of those producing dress goods. But makers of -men’s wear and costume elotlis have nothing to complain about, and if the same healthy manufacturing conditions obtained in France, Germany and the United States as in the West Biding, I am satisfied that consumption would be quite equal to absorbing the large weights of fine wool which will shortly be available. CROSSBREDS STILL DEPRESSED. Nothing really better can be chronicled in regard to crossbreds. With an end for the time being to tlx* cheaper sales of merinos, holders of crossbreds are naturally not disposed to tako a lower price, but all the same 40’s prepared tops can be bought at 12p.l and 12|d, though precious little business is doing. Some think that the Wellington sale on November 7th will open at a higher rate than Brad-ford, and Buenos Aires prices are still a- penny above what topmakers are wanting to be in at. 1 have every reason lor saying that limits for Bradford buyers both in New Zealand and the River Plate will be reduced to 12d for -10's prepared tops when the season opens. What is the greatest bug-boar to-day is the iact that yarn business is in such an unsatisfactory state. So many firms have stocks of second hand yarns which they are attempting to dispose of at under what they have cost until these artout of the way it is little use trying to do business. It is there where things stick. Of course, if Germany would only settle down and more business was forthcoming, then 1 am certain there would be more -confidence felt, .which would lead to new -orders being placed. A STEADIER MARKET. Since I last wrote things have assumed a steadier appearance, and Die strong “bear” move of the past month lias come to an: end. At least, there is no aggressiveness on the part of those who have been cheap seller's of tops, and to-day many have made up their minds that unless they can pick up wool in Australia to make 64’s at they are not going to be sellers under 25d. There seems at least to have come over importing topmakers in Bradford a determination not to be caught, and among those who have been lucky enough to get- in at 2«, feelings of satisfaction are expressed, j know one important spinner who says that he has bought 600 packs, and he is prepared to go on buying if anyone else will venture to sell, but for the moment all alike are resting and waiting further developments. The firmer cables from Australia are entirely responsible for this, and importing topmakers see how untenable is their position whim they cannot buy wool to sell in the top under 2nd. I hear that one or two firms arc still willing to risk the future by taking 24§d. but no one is n keen seller at that. There has been a fair number of public cables, and one, states that 64’s out of Melbourne are going to cost 27d —a price which no one believes. If any party is trying to gloss over actual facts then they had hotter save their money, for when importers of the first order are sellers at

25d for their standard 64’s. no on© is foolish enough to believe that they cannot cover at that price. That fact wants making very clear to those responsible for Australian cables. I mishit as well be candid and state that I count name several who lvayO"btiyrng—ordtis at present in Australia, and Lave Iliad, during the past few weeks ,at 244 d, andi they have secured part wool. However, for tho time being there is less disposition on the part of any one to sell forward, and these low -prices have been brought to an end until wood can bo had cheaper in Australia. That really is the sum and substance of the situation to-day. I know for a positive fact that for spot delivery good 64’s continue to be available at 25d, a, price which certainly indicates a loss to tho sellers. Values -are to-day just about the same either for- immediate or forward delivery, and topmakers have undoubtedly thrown their position away by going down to such low figures for tops for immecLvte delivery. If they had stuck out they could easily have made a penny more, but somehow they took on a fit of nerves and yielded to the ridiculous bids made by spinners. The yam spinning trade is giving cause for a little uneasiness, more particularly among crossbred spinners. Those in the merino trade- continue to be fairly well -oil" for work, and the- ma-jroit-y have i'n hand one or two months’ work, but these is not the satisfaction expressed over spinning margins that there was, and this can be seen when I state- that two-fold 40\» spin out of 64’s tops, and which at one time were worth Ms Id per lb., can be bought to-day 1 almost anywhere at 2s 9d for January delivery. * This is a serious decline, but it serves to illustrate how things actually stand. Mohair is as quiet n-s ever. There is much standing machinery in this department, and sorters arc going short time, as a rule only three days per week. There is a little more doiim in alpaca at unchanged prices.