FASHION NOTES.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXX, Issue 3598, 10 August 1912, Page 4

FASHION NOTES.

JUST A FEW SCRAPS. A new addition to the tailoring material list is silk covert coating. It has been seen at Newmarket this week and is one of the “exclusive” materials of the moment, The fashion of stretching a- piece of wide embroidery point upward across the figure is still liked. Many broderie blouses are made this way, with Magyar yoke and sieves of lawn cr ninen or net lightened by lace motifs. Flouncings of silk-embroidered chiffon thus arranged are ersponsible for seme very smart blouses, and voile, with a wide embroidered border stretching across the figure and finishing the hem of the skirt will be a very popular choice for the all-in-one summer dress. The voile is in pretty color, the embroidery is generally white, and a daisy pattern is a frequent choice. Rushy aigrettes in the hair have become a pest in the stalls at opera and theatre, and a frequenter of Covent Grden has summed up-courage to make public protest. Ladies are begged not to wear aigrettes in their hair, ■since they impede the view of these pt the back. “This year it seems to be tjie fashion for women to wear great bottle-brushes at the back of their

heads, which almost touch the faces of those who unfortunately occup seats behind.” All the writer says is true. The result of the appeal yet hangs in the balance.

1 Quite a new fabric for furnishings is a cretonne which, though eomp-cs- : ed of cotton, is woven with a com- ; mingling of fine and coarse threads in such a way as to impart the effect of • a rich woollen stuff. This is patterned with a blurred shadow design of ■ dull Indian red flowers and dark shadow foliage. The- ground is usually i grey. For a little while no-w there i has‘becn a run on grey-grounded tnp- ' cstries and cretonnes covered well with • a large design in mauve flowers. The 1 nc-we.-t cretonne does not readily soil —-a charactertisic favorable to its general adoption. Upholstery fabrics generally now have a “shadow” pattern. a near relation to the once-used chine.

| Lingerie grows over more and move sumptuous. Crepe tie chine and China silk are replacing even the finest of lawn for underwear, and much of both materials is included in the modern ’ bridal outfit. Cascades of lace fall : down the nightdress front, while n fichu of the finest lace draped about the shoulders and fastened in front with a pretty rosette takes its turn as a nightgown decoration. A lace . flounce round the hem is not a. rarity, while as for wide frills to finish ! the nightdress sieves, they are quite

I lit matter of course. | Veils till at conceal the features are still, alas! too eftn chosen; they are still fashionable, and most of them are : of real and costly lace. Expense and : becomingness are often sadly out of proportion. Madame Paquin promises a revival of the old-fashioned veil of ; Brussels net—pink, white, and black ! —with chenille spots that will rejoice : the hearts of those who remember the. i becoming effect o,f the veiling wiliich . softens the features, but does not disi guise and distort them. | The home blouse-maker is rejoiced ! to find that the handkerchief Magyar j is still a possible choice. To such a : one it is a joy to cliocse a large silk . square with its stencilled pattern, slice j out a place for the head, and run up I two sleeve seams—the blouse is finished when a few fasteners have been added to the back. Some cf the silk . handkerchief squares, bold of pattern ■ and gay in color, cut up with good ‘ effect to form revers and cuffs and lapels for coats and dresses. One rover, and that rather large, is often the only finish to a Magyar dress-front while the most favored of the tailored coats is the one which has one rever only, the opposite sale cf the coat being finished- by a row cf buttons or a very severe piping. The arrival is announced of a new : variety of crystal fringe for eveningdress 'trimming. It is composed of , tiny rings of glass linked together like a chain, and though the effect is dainty in the extreme, there is mere strength and solidity than one might

at the out-set imagine. Another crystal trimming is made as a fringe of the bright litle heads, each, strand being finished with a little glass ring.

PRAISE FROM A FRENCHWOM AN

“Each time I come you English are more charming, more nice, and —ah ! dress better.” The speaker was Madame Pa quin a charming French lady, who is the originator of many of the most “fetching” fashions that come to us from Paris. Londoners ought indeed to feel pleased and flattered.

As I mentioned a week ago, this authority has expressed the view that paniers are only for the tall —lengthy and slenderness are required for their successful wear. For such, she is reported to have created a delightful example, caught back level with the knees and held with posies in a mode suggestive of'Watteau; bnt slio asks her English friends not to take tea. seriously the threatened vogue towa’vl paniers.

“The English,” said Madame Paquin, “hare too great good sense to wear what- is unbecoming. I have seen with much pleasure how improved the English taste is.— the style of dress, the way of walking—all! And not only the modish people, but just the ordinary people and young girls 1 see in the street. It is most marked everywhere.” Outsiders are informed that “Madame’s methods are original. She does not design in the usual way. As a modeller works in clay, so she woras in the medium which is to express her views. The studio is <a room with stands, and the materials are yards and yards of stuffs of every kind nun color. These she blends, drapes, veils, contrasts', -until the idea has been olved. A now ‘Paquin' has been created.”

Public opinion in Paris continues to be divided regarding the merits or otherwise of the draped dress .-"id threatened, increasing fulness.