DRESS AND FASHION NOTES.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXXIII, Issue 3699, 7 December 1912, Page 4

DRESS AND FASHION NOTES.

. t ! 3 j LONDON AND PARISIAN. ! Cactus.—A charming, new shade of : green is known as cactus. It lias a ? sort of b’oom on it and a suggestion | of shot effect, pale dull reseda with | a gleam of blue through it, like the i thick foliage of some cacti or the more i generally familiar sedum family, t Roseleaves.—A lovely hat is widej brimmed and low in the crown and unj trimmed save for the edge of the brim, . on which is laid a wreath of rose pet- '■> als, palest pink shading s’owly to rose • color, increasing sli'ghtly in size as > they deepen in color till they reach ' i one side of the front, where they deepen and increase still more to "form a ! big flat overblown flower, stalkless and 1 leafless. The hat is of smoke-grey picot, lined with plisse tulle in a dark- > , er shade over rose-colored satin. For Mademoiselle—ln Josephine j style a dear little frock for a girl is • : fashioned of clear supple white muslin ' with worked sprigs all over it of blue , and green flowerets, and an infinitesi- • • mal coatee of blue and "reen striped silk. Another gown is of pale salmon J ping ninon over maize and pink shot ' taffetas, with a wreath of pink and yellow azaleas in the hair, without ! foliage, and a pretty neck-lace of pink i and. yellow topazes and rough pearls, j The Restoration, and Later.—A j pretty finish to a tailor-made frock or j suit is a change from the everlasting I one-sided frill, of which I for one, am heartily weary. A revival of the deep lace tie of the early days of the Re- . storation, when the Charles I. collar | had merged into a flat fall or bib of

" magnificent bice, hanging without fullness, except for a fold on either side, forming, as it were, a box pleat. This gave way soon after to a pleating of lace tied under the chin with a bow of black -velvet also very becoming; then, of course, the ribbon disappeared. Later, in Marlburian days, appeared the larger, narrower scarf with rounded lace ends (sometimes left outside, sometimes tucked into the cuirass). These "steinkirks’’ were just as becoming as their predecessors, to judge by the portraits cf the day. [- Orignial.—A lovely hat is of watered gauze, a moire effect rather strong marked upon very transparent l.i'a< k, lined with rose crepe and trimmed with one long trail of rose-hued, lambler roses all round the wide brim, an

upright aigrette being formed in original fashion of a cluster of stems and thorny ends tied with bass and set erect towards the bade. This is more artistic in effect than it sounds in words, and is not stiffly or spibily arranged. Utility.—Pretty and useful little washing frocks are made of the invaluable casement cloth in two shades of colors, decorated with a little effective cotton embroidery on the cloth, and big buttons covered with it, no other relief being introduced except perhaps a Robespierre collar, and wrist or elbow frills of fine white lawn, thus simplifying laundry complications immensely. If the buttons on washing frocks cannot be trusted to the laundress’s none too tender mercies they bad better be cleaned with, dry bread and removed before the frock goes, the buttons on a shank, like those on a man’s- white waistcoat, being the best. Some New Stuffs.—Marquisette and eharmeuse are first favorites. Floral borders and other borders distinguish so many new stuffs, often in Persian patterns, foulards, muslins, taffeta, and voiles, while small medal 1 ions of Persian patterns are thrown on many of the muslins, and the buttons now so much in demand are all often of bright interblended coloring. Taffetas of every kind, and brought out in lovely colors, many shot, are being turned to good account by our leading dressmakers. White satin is a good foundation, and much of it will be worn veiled with 'black chiffon, the overskirt bordered with straight-edged salon crossing in front, but leaving most of the front breadth visible, the bodice also crossing, and the sleeves short. Box pleats still appear at the back. Surplice-shaped bodices are the rogue. Empire fabrics and Empire makes still find favor. Evening materials are often covered with rhine done embroidery. A deep rose pink, cerise, and coral ire among the new season’s favorite :olors. Blue is as much sought after is ever. Brown, and the darker ihadee of grey will be much worn in pring. _

The buckle promises to be an important feature of our shoes next spring, and will match either the shoe or the dress. Highly polished enamel with a gilt outline will probably be the favorite form of the bfickle, which is oval in shape, and is beautifully ornamented with' dainty floral patterns.

These buckles have a strong, safe clasp, and can be easily attached and detached. In belts a striking combination is suede and leather, and some very pretty designs are shown. The suede is seen in a variety of colors. One pretty example is a straight black patent leather belt trimmed at the back with heliotrope suede, on which there is a floral design in small steel beads. Another has a trimming of fawn- colored suede. This season considerable attention is being given to trimming the hacks of coats. Some show loops, braid, and buttons!; others overlapping seams, and a few are made with the back exactly like the front. For tunics and panniers, ninon is perhaps one of the most successful materials, since its delicacy enables it to drape so gracefully, but it requires very careful manipulation. A dainty lingerie frock is made of embroidered net over a lining of yellow silk. Cluny and Irish crochet lace are lavishly used as trimming. The large black hat of tho Neapolitan straw is trimmed with black ostrich plumes. • _ A blue serge frock, suitable for a young girl, has a broad sailor collar of bluo and white plaid silk. The tie of the same material. A plain- skirt, slashed up at either side, discloses panels of the silk. Large buttons of black bone fasten the dress at the side. ( 'For the skirt worn at the hem, a box-pleated ruche of silk, satin, or chiffon (according to the material employed) is invaluable, since the skirt lower edge may he re-hemmecl or faced up, and the ruche arranged over this,- so concealing any defects. Another idea is to border the lower edge with a slurred band made by turning in. either edge of a cros.sbnnd of gathering this just within edge of either fold, and drawing up the fulness gracefully. If. the skirt is too much worn at the hem to allow of -either of these suggestions, then very often it will do good service as a petticoat or underskirt, if the lower part be cut away, and a kilted or gathered flounce of silk or satin substituted. Juvenile.- —Becoming, and at the same time comfortable, is a pretty suit for a small boy, consisting of a smock of drab Shantung (imitating brown holla nd) over knickerbockers of chestnut Shantung. Another suit has a. very short'jacket of green velveteen, black silk breeches, and a lull white skirt and frill a la Baehurn. Some notes on the Melbourne race frocks, from the “Leader” make interesting reading for those who like to know what Australian women are wearing: Broadly speaking, the day proved another triumph for the tailormade gown, the terms being no longer identical. Never did this recognised suit appear in such variety. There were coats and skirts of silk .serge, coats and skirts of sponge cloth, which seemed distressingly appropriate to the climatic conditions. Navy blue crepe de .chine and the still sturdier resildo. enjoyed much popularity. Honors, however, were with the satin suits. No material has more effectually proved its claim to be regarded as a stand-by, and it is safe to say that the best looking of the many emergency gowns made this season were of soft, thick satin, usually in som© serviceable shade of blue. Two things gav<f these natty suits both grace and distinction. The first, and most important was collars. The second was ruffles. No happier revival has been noted these many years than the revival of the Ipg la.ee collar. No more becoming item of dress was ever designed than the well cut collar in cream, putty, or ecru, or even the dead -blue-white, in which it was seen recently at great French and English race-meetings. The popularity of yellow accounted for many bright patches. One enthusiastic sportswoman with a blue cloth coat and skirt, wore a trim little black hat, handed with yellow corded ribbon, a- square upright bow of the same ribbon being set in front. Soft leather gloves of the same color gave just the 2iecessary finish, while they drew attention to the tact that gloves, like stockings, have undergone vast changes recently. The übiquitous tan, mole, black, or white gloves were varied by gloves of every color The length of thorn is much less than it -used to he, since the average sleeve comes nearly to the wrist. In many instances the ordinary coat sleeve was seen in garments that had very recently passed through the hands of our best tailors. As popu!ar as tho pleated jabot and the neck ruff is the frill of pleated net which finishes the sleeves of the best coats, which, with their slashed cuffs, are reminiscent of the Empire coat. Wo have heard much of the taffeta coatee, but this was the first day it ever made itself felt in the crowd. Very attractrvs indeed was a short, well-cut skirt of silk serge, worn with a short taffeta coat in periwinkle blue. The fronts were rounded, and the coat was little more than hip length, the whole bemg outlined with flat ruching. A full, wide jabot of cream pleated net, the collar topped by a- band of periwinkle blue velvet run through jewelled slides,., only needed the high crowned white hat, with its mount of periwinkle colored velvet peonies, to complete a charming and really serviceable costume. Fortunately, many of the most fashionable -materials this year are.capable of -standing much in the way of bad weather. -Silk poplin is an excellent example, and a powder j blue silk poplin, with a deep collar | and bands of guipure lace, worn with a., turban hat, surmounted by an upright blue feather, was one of several similar costumes, specially noticeable among which was one of deep rose color, trimmed with ecru guipure, worn with a mole-colored toque. Silk poplin in lime color went to -make a coat and skirt that was very smartly trimmed, with little lime-colored buttons. Another such coat and skirt

had its lines defined by jet buttons, and, worn with a black satin hat trimmed with a magnificent lime-colored pi eureuse plume, its effect was exceedingly good. No Parisienne who hopes to- be regarded as thoroughly fashionable walks out of an afternoon without a

few dogs running after her. They are painted to match her costume, and held by gaily-tinted leads. A celebrated actress whose example ia followed everywhere was dressed in

a green gown the other day, trimmed with fringes touched with yellow. Her big hat was laden with sea-green flowers. Three of her toy dogs were painted orange, striped with silver, and had their paws green with yellow

ankles. The fourth dog was.'dond in pale green to match the toilette of its. mistress. The idea of painted dogs is attributed to a Futurist artist. A beautiful' actress had appeared on the stage mounted on a dulllooking brown pony. The gown of the actress was blue, trimmed with old rosq, and the artist went to her and suggested that a blue mount would be much more effective than the brown one. She allowed him to paint the animal, with the result that the fashion has been followed by a number of ladies who are always on the look-out for novelty. One actress, it is reported, carries a fox-terrier painted Parma-violet color, with gentian-blue paws; and one more, who makes a pet of a monkey, employs an artist to paint the creature every day in hues to match her toilettes. Needless to say, all colors used are easily washed off.—" London Daily Telegraph.”