FROM GISBORNE TO DUNEDIN AND BACK.

Gisborne Standard and Cook County Gazette, Volume III, Issue 406, 21 January 1890, Page 3

FROM GISBORNE TO DUNEDIN AND BACK.

BY “ PAX,”—(No. 2.) Then some houses, which indicate habitation, tower in sight, when some one begins to describe the points of interest, by locating the different patches of houses, and Baying “There is the Hutt, there is Petone, and that (pointing right ahead) is Ksiwarra, the scene of the recent and cruel tragedy.” Taking a look over the port bow (excuse the nautical phrase) there, in full panoramic view, is presented the Empire City, which looks, at first glance, like a huge basin with part tut out, fairly lined with houses, and to one Who has lived in a small town for any length of time, the scene is fairly striking, presenting as it does a regular forest of house". On nearing the wharf, streets end houses are plainly recognised by those who have previously visited Wellington, and who are, as a matter of course, pestered with many ques tions. The large post-office, with its clock

elevated in the tower above, and facing the harbor, has a very imposing appearance; alio the Mount Cook prison, now in course of construction, is very conspicuous, together with the much heard of rubbish destructor By this time the steamer is securely moored alongside the wharf: some passengers are met by friends, while the visitor is, as a rule, left to hie own sweet will. On forcing your way over the stage that connects the Bteamer with the wharf, you are accosted by a man with a broad band on bis hat, bearing the word • porter ' plainly printed thereon, and who keeps on repeating as the passengers pass him, 1 Carry yer luggage, sur.’ You then catch the familiar • Cab, sir,’—all of which you decline, preferring to have a quiet ramb'e. Getting safely on terra Jirma and away from the turmoil of tta wharf, the next sound that strikes the ear is the beating of the big drum, until gradually you also hear the strains of music, and on proceeding through some of the Streets, —like those in Napier, very narrow—you come in contact with the familiar corps of the Salvation Army, and right there Brother Stuckey and Cadet Hughes (both from Gisborne) are recognised, blowing awsy ht their instruments. Not caring to follow them through the streets to their barracks,— Which, by the way, is a miserable looking building, in Taranaki Street—you find your Way to one of tbe several churches, and, at tbs conclusion of tbe service, a restaurant or hotel is adjourned to for dinner, and after tbe Usual 1 real a while,' the Museum becomes tbe point of interest. The Wellington Museum is pot a very large one, but it is very neat and aompabt in itself, showing the great amount ol care and attention bestowed by those In authority. There ere many fine specimens of the * finny tribe’ sealed up In glass jars, a good display of stuffed birds and animals, many kinds of weapons of war, some very ancient looking, even dating a long way anterior to gunpowder. Shells and birds' eggs are Countless, while there are insects by tbe score, also skeletons of animals, reptiles, and birds, and a large collection of minerals and fossil", While in Wellington, the weather was all tha’ Could be desired, I must also mention a brilliant, though solemn, spectacle—a military funeral—in which the several local corps took part, led by the splendid band of tha City Guards, playing botb the I' Dead March in Saul,” and Beethovens’ Grand March, both being very impressive. In the cemetry, which without doubt is the most picturesque part of Wellington, there is * beautiful collection of costly tablets both plain and ornamental; in fact, the place has more tbe appearance of a beautiful domain than the resting place of the dead. Now the shades of night are tailing, and an adjournment is made to tbe house of a friend for a quiet oup of tea, and a chat over old times, and not earing for nocturnal rambling tbe Cabin rf the steamer is reached for the night in ssf y. Next day off to the Basin Reserve, and Newton Park, taking a good look at all the large buildings and shops en route. The Wharf and the harbor presented a very pretty sight; it being tbe anniversary of the Prince gt Wales’ Birthday, there were all kinds of outings going on, The bands were playing, gnd the volunteers were marching; vessels were gaily dressed with bunting, small boats filled the harbor, some sailing, others being rowed, steamers and trains whistling, people rushing hither and thither with baskets full Of provisions for the day's outing, Hundreds Of people were on tbe move, with the look of Contentment on their faces. A glimpse of the gas works, a few penny rides in the trams, and an inspection of tbe reclamation works, Which are very extensive, and when completed will make Wellington a great deal larger, and closer to the ua, leaving no beach to Cause any unpleasant smells. Long ere the picnic parties returned, the scream of the Whittle of the Tarawera told of the time for our departure, which was fixed at 5 p.m., and the punctuality of the Union Company was not violated on this occasion. So steaming out of tbe harbor, we watched the apparently receding city until completely lost to view. At with Napier one does not * do ’ Wellington for nothing, the steamer has been in port from 10 a.m, on Sunday, until 5 p.m. on Monday. While in Wellington I met some of tbe 1 old bands * of Gisborne, among whom wen young Mr Porter, Mr Alfred Cooper. Mr Curtain, and Mr W. L. Bees. Leaving Wellington as previously stated, and after a very pleasant night, we arrived at Lyttelton on Tuesday morning at 8 o’clock, Lyttelton looks rather pretty from the sea, and has a very good harbor (artificial). Being the port for Christchurch, there is always a good deal Of shipping there, and being well protected on all sides, vessels can lie there safely in all feathers. Tbe steamer by this time being securely moored alongside the wharf, and not being desirous of staying at the port, and with very short time at my disposal, a general rush is made for the railway station, to catch the train that is jnst about leaving for Chri.tchoreh. The ticket secured, the cartriage' reached, a screech of the whistle, and away dashes the train, and in a very short while she is in the tunnel, with only the dim jfght of a kerospnp lamp to enable you to see four follow passengers. After clanking and whistling for about ten minutes, suddenly she emerges from darkness into light, and on looking through the carriage windows, there, in all its beauty, lies the Heathoote Valley, with Hw beautiful fiat land, neat looking gs, brickyard, bright green hedges, and tiful river,’ Th. nefct station is Opawa, - Wolafon, and further on ia Wilson’s I, all being a continuation of the plain, insuring the admiration of the traveller, who gt the came time concludes that nothing but contentment and plenty reign here. While going along thia lioe, I met Mr Adams, a nephew of our respeoted townsman Mr Joyce, Arriving at Christchurch station, which is a gupaiantiai and - commodious building, you bra directed to make your exit through a door leading into the street, which la done without any more trouble, for time is short, therefore precious, and the most must be made of it. On emerging from the station you find yourself in a fine wide thoroughfare, with a yegplar host of cabs standing there, the drivers eagerly watching for passengers, and again from several quarters at the same moment you hr ar tbe familiar 'Cab, sir?' Being only a Visitor, you prefer to walk, and

scrutinize as you go along, eager to see the much-talked of c-ty. Happily on the steamer 8, a Christcburth man, who very gsnerpiloted me through the ‘ City of the .' There is a good deal to admire ia cbufgb, and Jt would take fully a whole 0 do it full justice, so X can only give a the many points of interest. Maybe tbe first thing that strikes the attention: of the visitor ia the fine wide streets; next comes the glass covered verandahs, nicely arched, having the appearance of comfort, and at tbe Mine time allowing light to the shops. The next attraction is the water constantly run. fiidg through tbe streets—a nice effect in the warm weather, for tbe water is both deer and beautiful, Wandering along, the regt pbieot is th« qeypr ceasing in Cathedral Square, forcing tbe water upward for a short distance, then outward in beautiful arches, and becoming fine spray ere it reaches the large basin which is constructed in order to receive It, —the whole thing looking like a miniature waterspout, glistening in the sunshine. Christchurch is noted for its inexhaustible supply of good wholesome water. Before leaving the Square, I cannot refrain from relating an anoodota often told throughout ths city, and which was said to have come from a 1 cabby,* of ready wit, and about the 3am. time as tbe eruption of Mt. Tarawera, When things were not very lively iq tbq City bl'the Plains,’ 'Cabby,' on being asked, Hdw Is btutaesi ;bcw,?' aa.wbfsd abruptly.

‘lt is a great pity that the eruption did not strike a hump in Cathedral Square a» big as a mountain, then some of the swells would be compelled to lake a cab instead of walking.’ Onward we sped through tbe busy streets, until we reached the famous gardens, which are very rxtensive, and exceedingly will kept, containing as they do a very large variety of choice flowers, shrubs, and trees, ornamental and forest. The site.chosen ia simply delightful, the beautful river Avon running through it. In the river fish abound in great quantities, and it is quite a novelty to see the fish ponds, wherein are thousands of small fish. As the small fish grow, there are larger ponds to receive them, and to persons who have not previously seen fish in i heir different stages of development, the ponds are both instructive and attractive, and will well repay a visi’. In tbe gardens there are a'so a few birds, and some anima,s, including the veritable ' Jacko,’ who appears as knowing as if he quite understood the conversation and remarks of the visitors re-

garding himself and his close resemblance to a human being, Along the Avon there are boatsheds at which boats can be hired, and rowing parties may enjoy themselves, the bank of the river in many places being over hung with trees which afford beautiful shade. Going through the gardens, and looking across the river, right in front is the beauti ful grounds of the hospital, nicely laid out, and looking quite picturesque Leaving the gardens we enter the museum, which by this time is open, and being in the same ground there is no trouble in finding it. I cannot attempt to describe the exhibits, which are very extensive, and I am told are not equal lei in the Southern hemisphere. There are some very large skeletons of the mos, standing from about eight to nine feet high, enough to frighten any ordinary savage, when the bird was roaming about the country

in the flesh. There are a great variety o: stuffed monkeys, or rather skins of monkeys stuffed birds, both of land and sea, and thr plumage of some causes a person to stanc a--d admire, and wonder if it is natural oi artificial. There are several skins of animal; Bo well stuffed as to almost cause one tc doubt whether the animals are dead or alive Skeletons of animals, birds, fish, insects, and reptiles are in great variety, a skeh ton ol a human being (Egyptian lady) in a glasi oase being much noticed. Then there at insects, fish, coins, birds' eggs, minerals, implement. of war, some of the rudest description | armour used by our forefathers ; glass cases filled with clothing of a very ancient period, also a good collection ci statuary end pictures. Leaving the museum the library is the next point of interest, and is also well worth a visit, with its shelves piled with books, some of them of the most ancient class, making tbe institution the best reference library in New Zealand. Leaving there and wending our way again through the busy streets which are thronged with vehicles and pedestrians, and passing tbe large buildings, including the Post Office, we visit the Palace Rink, which is a gigantic building of its kind, the interior being ratbcr prettily decorated with flags and scenery. There is sitting room, I was told, for about 5000 people, There are two platforms, run* ning the whole length of the building, leaving the centre quire clear, with plen’y of room for skaters Having visited the ' City of the Plains,,’ which is a delightful place, I suppose, like the child with the sweets, the best thing was left until the last, and that was a climb up to tbe top of the Cathedral spire, for which a shilling is charged. On gaining the top landing, which is reached by means of a narrow winding stairway, there are four doors opening to the 'four winds.' Opening a door, and stepping out on to the small balcony, which is protected by strong and high railings, and 10l what a sight I—a most magniflcent view presents itself, and so suddenly once seen never to be forgotten. The whole country for miles around ia to be seen, and some parts, like the ocean, only ends with the horizon. Then on leaving to descend the stairway, the scene closes quite as suddenly as it appeared, which brings one back to the recollections of boyhood, and the * Arabian Knights,’ and the beautiful cave and the * Open Sesame.*