TO OPOTIKI AND BACK.

Gisborne Standard and Cook County Gazette, Volume IV, Issue 543, 11 December 1890, Page 3

TO OPOTIKI AND BACK.

(fPECUL TO TUB STANDARD ) 111. I should have liked to have visited the Otari and Wai o tahi Valleys, Whakatane, Ohiwa, and other places around Opotiki, but business on the one hand, and bad weather on the other, kept me within the bounds of the town, except on the occasion just before I left, when I rode around the flat. To while away the intervening time was no easy matter. I measured every yard of the roads, all good onee, in the town; I inspected the exterior of every building: I conversed with all who Would condescend to converse with me, and even then I had lots of spare time. The only relief from the everyday routine of the Opotikian’s life is the arrival of the steamer from Auckland, and on this auspicious occasion half the population —of the town at least —appears to consider it has an interest in the event, and accordingly gives it personal attention. To me there was nothing novel about the matter, and I took a great deal more interest in the Maori election, which took place while I was there. 'J he rain was pouring down heavily, but the aboriginal free and independent was no way concerned about a wet jacket, I spent a couple of hours in initiating myself into the mysteries of Maori voting. The voting is all done openly, and Mr Bush, who was reluming efficer, and has an intimate knowledge of the habits and manners of the Maoris and knows nearly •very native on the coast, had a sinecure in his office that day. The voters came on an average of one every five minutes or so. The scrutineers would be amusing themselves outside the polling booth, when a rush of one or other of their number would tell of the arrival of a fresh voter. Some time after this important individual would make his appearance, throw his hat on the floor, and assume a state of expectancy. The first question of his name being sealed the next was who he would vote for. The answer was invariably Wi Pere or Timmy (Carroll) Then the individual would pick up his hat •nd walk outside, to be met by a host of persons who were anxious to know for whom be had voted. One decrepit old man, leaning anon a atick, and wet to the skin, tottered into the booth, and being asked the usual question, desired to vote for some one who was not a candidate. Another person would require the names to be read over two or three times, and then would choose his man. Ona wished to know who had got the most votes and he would vote for him. btill another was quite willing to vote any way the returning officer wished. Now. and again you would see a dark skinned Individual slink up to the door until he heard for whom the vote was regarded, whan off he would go post haste. Sometimes the returning officer had difficulty in making the intelligent voter tomprahsnd what was required of him, and then it took the scrutineers, returning officer, and deputy, all speaking at once, to drive it into him. In the afternoon quite an excitirg Verbal contest over the “Ungatn” religion took place between two stalwart champions, who Marched deep into the Maori vocabulary for kpilhets hard enough to fling at each ether, and just at the point when one seemed Vanquished be would infuse fresh vigor into the thing by going one better than his opponent, much to the amusement of the Bystanders, who testified their enjoyment of the scene hr their hearty peals of laughter, just when the arguments were getting a trifle thr, adhere, an opportune shower put an end to the discussion, and the disputants, each With hie body at admirers, made a rather Undignified retreat to the hotel verandah. There wae no crush at the closing of the poll; the last voter polled at least ten minutes before, but though most of them knew pretty Well what the result would be, there was great excitement when the poll was declared. Some one called for three cheers, which was > given in true imitation of British style, except that only two cheers were given and BO one knew what it was for. Then Tuta Kiboniho had an eighteen gallon keg of beer polled out, and addressing the assembled I voters and non-voters, for according to numbers polled the latter must have been In a majority, he invited those of all shades Of opinion to come and have a drink. And i they came accordingly, the scene being one of indescribable confusion. Some, a very few, , brought moderate pint pots and glasses, more , Came with gallon and half-gallon measures, Which they bad borrowed from the barman, for the purpose, while a considerable number had contrived to gather buckets, which they dutifully filled and emptied. There were Impatient and excited groups round each Vessel, all clamouring and shouting for their portions, while the lucky individual who had for the time got possession of the prize, contentedly poured what he could down his throat. One enterprising aboriginal had an eye for the future, and was busy storing up bis share of the spoil in bottles. Amongst *ll the hubbub, fierce yelling and shouting, good humor and order prevailed. Although the clatter was kept up far into the night the affable and übiquitous Constable O'Reilly, who is a general favorite, both among Europeans and natives, and who* fi ls the responsible positions of Clerk of the Court, conservator of the peace, and adviser-general to all the troubled ones of his district, had very little to do beyond ordering the noisy •net to their homes. Next day every sign of the previous day’s dissipation had disappeared, and blear-eyed natives, now sober *nd wise, waited patiently all day for the result* of the election. All the excitement Was at an end—and so was the supply of beer.

On the day after the polling I took a quieter *o«ne. At the dining table of the hotel I thade the acquaintance or Mr Grierson, the toting head-master of the district school. The school and its former master had been tbe centre of a great deal of dissension, from which even Mr Grierson had not wholly •scaped. I was anxious to see the state of things at the school, and a bint to the master was readily taken. Too little interest is taken in the school by parents |nd others, except by those who are prone to find fault, The Opotiki people require to have instilled into them pome of that emulating spirit with Which Gisborne people regard all the doings Of their School, and which has proved so encouraging both to masters and pupils. It is worthy of remark that the school scandals have not affected the pupils, and it speaks highly for the past master and bit assistants that the acting master, who has had some experience nJ teaching, testifies to the fact that he has Seldom seen better behaved children or ones tore willing to learn. Borne of them have to walk three or four miles to school, but except With the larger boys, in the maige planting Mason, are most regular in their attendance. On my visit to the school I was struck with the bright, intelligent countenances of the children, and the aptitude they displayed for the lessons they were then engaged in. It would of course be impious to say they came up to Gisborne children in the performance Of their school duties, nor did they in any Fay approach the perfection of those para gons; but then it must be remembered that the opportunities are not equal, nor has Opotiki like advantages. The school is much smaller, and the attendance does not approach that of ths more favored school. All of the school children were neatly dressed, and Under the supervision of Mr Grieison, with bis assistant* Misses Boyd and Flatt, and Mr Hazard, appear to be making rapid progress in their studies. The bead master appears to take a great deal of interest in his Work, but the fact that he is only temporarily in charge ia rather detrimental to his attemnting any permanent good. 1 Another person I met at ths hotel, and who loosed w*s on* of the first to shake hands with me pn my arpva', w*s pn old Gisborne resident, Mr itoberr, or as he is belter known, "Bob" Wake. I had several chats with Bob, Who Is no unimportant personage in tbe Maizopdns. It appears that he fell on evil times when he first arrived in Opotiki, but Whan I saw him ha was fast becoming a bloated aristocrat. He is running a billiard saloon and toneorial establishment, combined, •nd •* he he* ■ monopoly of the latter busiB««s, be is now doing fairly well, and hopes before long to be on his feet again. Bob had k long apell of sickness before ha left GisOOtne, and what with his expenses to Opotiki retie was to* til to travel overlend—and his ill In*'* alter he reached there, he got into nrettv 1W bat he has lately takes over the

establishment—connected with the Royal—that he now runs, and seems to ba successful. He is new hale and hearty, and speaks highly of the Opotiki climate. Speaking of the Royal, I must not omit mention of the kindness shown to me by the proprietor and his wife—Mr and Mrs Russell. The latter took quite a motherly care of me, and nothing that could make me comfortable was left undone. There are three hotels in Opotiki—the Opotiki, Masonic, and Royal. Those who w< uld patronise a tip-top house, would of course go to the Opotiki. The Masonic is . the more central, but is small; it does a big bar trade. But if anyone requires a quiet house, with comfort and cheapnesss combined, be will find that he cannot do better than as I did, and go to the Royal. So far as respectability is concerned, there is not much to choose between the three, as they all seem, to be well conducted houses. When I left Opotiki, which I did about 12 30 on the Saturday afternoon, I had tbe pleasure of Mr and Mrs Russell's company along tbe beach for a good.part, of the road, they having put themselves about somewhat so os to accompany me. I was glad of their company, and they were the last Opotiki people I saw. I must say the Opotiki people are a hospitable lot, and those who went with tbe Te Kooti expedition bear me out in this. Of that expedition the Opotikians have a lively recollection as of good times gone by. While it lasted money was plentiful and the Opotiki people reaped tbe benefit. After bidding Mr and Mis Russell good-bye on the track, I pushed on. I was sorry to leave Opotiki, and glad to be going back to Gisborne. I found that the heavy rains that had fallen had swollen the rivers, but they were passable. My destination that evening was the roadman’s camp, which I had arranged should be my first stopping place. I renewed my acquaintance with Mr Irwin and his mate, Mr Dan Ryan. I learnt that a Mr Wyatt, the day before, had been unable to get over a slip which had fallen, and had bad to walk four miles to camp. Bad as the first part of my journey ■was, I thought I was particularly lucky, I had just missed the tree which had blocked Mr Kelly; business had accidentally delayed me when I had intended to leave for Gisborne on the Wednesday, and the rain came

flown in torrents that night and next day; and now I had escaped being stopped by a slip. The next morning I started in company with Irwin, who came to see mo over the slip. It was very dangerous. Tons of earth had fallen on the road, and a narrow path was made over the top of it. At each step the soft earth threatened to give way, but I got safely over, and having shook hands with Irwin, I pursued my way leisurely towards the Motu accommodation house. I gave my horse over an hour's spell in good grass, and reached the Motu Bridge about five o’clock. As I had some time to spare, I got off my horse and viewed the falls from a vantage point. The river Was slightly swollen, a high wind duelling the silvery spray right over tha bridge. It was a magnificent sight, and I enjoyed It so much that I almost forgot how time was flying. Ou the bridge itself there are numerous mementoes of the Te Kooti expedition, a number of persons, including members of the Permanent Artillery, having carved their names into the wood, I arrived at the accommodation bouse at dusk, sod spent the time before dark in taking a look round. The mosquitoes were troublesome during the night, and I had no difficulty in awaking betimes next morning. Breakfast over I was on the road by ten minutes to six. By eleven I came up with the Goldsmiths, who were shitting camp. At three I was yarning with O’Neil about things in general, and a few minutes later I was discussing a hearty meal with his cook. At seven I had reached Kaiteratahi, and shortly before ten on Monday night I welcomed once more, tired and stiff as I was, the hospitable lights of Gisborne, The journey back had been very pleasant except for the strong westerly wind which threatened to blow me off the tops of the hills.

The average Opotikian has a large opinion of Gisborne, and one of the principal desires of the young men is to come to Gisborne and then go on to Sydney. It more direct communication could be opened up between the two places both would reap an advantage. Opotiki is really very little further from Gisborne overland than it is from Tauranga overland. The regular running of a steamer of course makes a difference. If there was a direct mail to Opotiki from Gisborne, the latter would be placed in more frequent communication with Auckland than st present. Mr Carrol! is reported to have said that he would support the establishment of such a mail route. Mr Kelly acknowledged i»s utility, but is afraid of the cost. No doubt it would be expensive and might not immediately repay itself, but it would place us in closer contact with the Bay of Plenty as far north at least as Tauranga, and down to the Bast Cape and inland towards the Hot Lakes. Every year a number of persons travel oyerland to the Lakes, and with a few more conveniences and the road in fairly good order, the trip can be made much easier and cheaper than going round by Auckland. Ou an average (including Maoris) one thousand persona travel from Gisborne to Opotiki each year, and before long that number is sure to be considerably increased. In the meantime, to anyone wanting to make a trip in the coming holidays, I cannot do better than recommend the ride to Opotiki. The road, in summer, is not dangerous to anyone who is ordinarily careful, and in the fine weather obstacles in the shape of slips and fallen trees are not likely to be met with. Where a number travel an early start from Gisborne will bring them to the edge of the bush that evening where they will find a travellers’ hut. Next day they can travel to a camping place, ten miles the other side of the bridge, or to another place nine miles further on, where they will find a deserted hut, and next day they can ride comfortably the remaining 85 miles into Opotiki. Those who wish to travel alone, or are pressed for time, cannot do better than make the stages I did myself, which are, I think, although mere guess work, really the best ones that could be made. I shall be very glad if my trip should be instrumental in clearing up a great deal of the doubt that overhangs this, to some terrible Gisborne Opotiki road, and I shall ba amply repaid for any inconvenience that I was put to if the result should bs an increase of through travellers. The road, when once one is on it, is so plain that it cannot ba missed. Tbe only place where doubt is likely to arise is in the turning on to the beach at Omarumqtu, tut a question to the Maoris who live there will soon dear that away. Once at Opotiki, with its hospitable residents, and all tbe trials and troubles of the journey will be soon forgotten,