The Hawke's Bay Garden Guide

Hawke's Bay Tribune, Volume XX, Issue 264, 25 October 1930, Page 12

The Hawke's Bay Garden Guide

(By

LEONARD A. GRIFFITHS.)

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 25, 1930.

“I think that I shall never scan A tree as lovely as a man.” —Joyce Kilmer. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ Sammer Sweet Peas USEFUL HINTS. During the next few weeks Sweet Peas require daily atteni on. As soon as they reach the supports, they begin to make rapid growth, especially in showery weather. The haulm broadens and buds soon make their appearance. When the flowers are required for decorative purposes, the plants may be allowed to grow naturally, and only a little thinning out of lateials or side shoots is necessary where growth is too dense. When tendrils binder the proper development of a flower, remove them. During dry weather keep the Dutch hoe af work among the plants. This aciates the soil promotes growth, and c< rserves the moisture, wnicb escapes more rapidly when the surface is “baked." Constant use of the hoe is often better than watering the plants. if it is necessary to water, this should be done thoroughly. A good soaking once a >'oe'; is better than several light applications, which penetrate only to a depth of about 2 inches. These light waterings are really harmful, for the roots are induced to reach out towards this moisture, and if a hot day follows and the ' surface becomes dry quickly, these surface-seeking roots are scorched. Watering should be done m the evening when possible. Flowers required for exhibition purposes need more care in cultivation. Tho plants must be restricted to one, two, or three leaders, according to the vigour of the variety, and all other leaders, together with side shoots, rubbed out us soon as they appear. This throws the energy of the plant into the restricted vines. When plants are grown on canes, they need constant tying with raffia or adjustment by the split-rings, known as “time-savers.” The latter are very handy, and easily fixed or removed.

Blooms should lie cut regularly and no seed vessels allowed to form or the plants will soon cease flowering. When gathering the blooms, see that the haulm is not injured in any way. If blooms are required to be sent away by post, they should lie packed dry in tissue paper and packed in a wooden box They will soon revive in water.

If the ground lias been well prepared, there should be no need to feed the plants during the early flush of bloom, but when this is over and the flowers show signs of deteriorating, or if the stems begin to shorten, liquid manure or some prepared fertiliser may be used. Soot water improves the colour, and a supply of tliis can be made by suspending a sack of old soot in a tub of water. It should be applied in showery weather and well diluted before using. In sunny, windly weather certain Sweet Peas lose their colour and re-

quire shading. Any coarse material, such as calico, sacking or cloth that will allow the sun’s rays to filter through, should be suspended above the plants. Orange and salmon shades are very beautiful when they are protected in this way. The shading material should be fixed securely, so that it is not blown down on the plants. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ Gardens of Old It is interesting to note the changes that have crept over the aspect of the garden in the course of centuries. From earliest Biblical days onwards we read of gardens for the cultivation of herbs, upon which the housewives depended for stuffings and salads, which were eaten with meat. Vegetables, at this period, were practically unknown. Old English herb gardens of the fifteenth century were particularly beautiful; square enclosures surrounded by a high wall or hedge, and all round a bank of sweet-smelling herbs. Cowslips. Daisies,, Gilly-flowers, Primroses, Violets, Marjoram, Marigolds, Roses, beside a variety of other sweet, homely flowers, grew in profusion; truly a garden suggestive of peace and restfulness. There are few specimens of the old English herb garden in existence to-day, but if the opportunity comes your way to see one, do not miss taking it. It is stated by early writers that Potatoes were introduced into England in the time of Queen Elizabtli. Only the nobility could afford to purchase them, and it was not until two hundred years later that the Potato became a popular vegetable. Artichokes, Beans, Spinach, and the cultivated Cabbage were introduced into tho country by various races, and in devious manners. Wild Cabbage, or Kale, has been eaten since Saxon days; indeed, “sprout-kale month" was a name given by the Saxons for March.

Gradually a change crept over the layout of the herb garden and the kitchen garden came into existence, as the name implies, for the cultivation of vegetables for use in tho kitchen. Gardens for pleasure alone were fashioned, being quite distinct from the herb or kitchen garden, until gradually the lovely herb enclosures of our ancestors passed oui of all knowledge. All that remains is, perhaps, that corner of the kitchen garden where Mint, Sage, Thyme and Parsley grow, each serving its own useful purpose * * ♦ ♦ A Useful Preserving Table When making jam or jelly, it is important to use just the correct amount of sugar. This table shows the quantity of sugar which should be allowed to the particular kinds of fruit. Sugar Fruit. per 11b fruit 1 Blackberries 11b Cherries jib Black Currants flb-llb Red Currants lib White Currants fib Damsons 11b Red Gooseberries lib Green Gooseberries .... lib Greengages fib Plums fib Raspberries fib Rhubarb lib Strawberries lib ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ Shrubbery Calceolarias Bedding Calceolarias were at one time considered a most essential class of plants for the adornment of the garden in summer, and there were few bedding schemes which did not include a goodly proportion of these, particularly of tho yellow and brown shades. Nowadays they do not, however, figure quite so prominently, having either been displaced by the larger and more brilliantly flowered greenhouse varieties or by some different class of plants entirely, with the result that many of tho once popular varieties are now difficult to procure, Fortunately, for they are charming little plants, it is still possible to obtain these in sufficient variety to enable them to bo used with good effect cither in bedding schemes or to brighten up some portion of tho garden. Provided Hie weather is at all favourable these may be planted out now, and, as short-jointed, stubby little specimens give much better results than long spindly ones, preference should lie given to the former when selecting one’s plants. Success or otherwise depends to a certain extent on the season, as a very hot. dry season considerably shortens their period of usefulness, but as coolness at the roots is appreciated by this class of plants, these should be planted in a fairly rich loam, which has been deeply cultivated. The space allowed '

each plant depends on whether they are usd as dots or massd, but wellshaped symmetrical plants can only be obtained by permitting ample room for development, and the ground between the plants should either be carpeted with a dwarf subject to keep the roots cool or else stirred regularly with the hoe for the same purpose. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ Don’it Plant Tomatoes After a Potato Crop Suitable manuring and rotation of crops are most important. Though plants differ in the way of producing their respective products, experience has taught us that it is not wise to plant these in successive years. Tomato fruits above the ground and potatoes are borne on the roots, but they are so allied to each other in their growth that trouble with disease has often occurred where one has planted in a plot where the other had been grown. Though many growers make rotation of crops a study, some of them do not consider it of such importance. It is a well-known fact that ground that has been planted for successive years with the same class of crop will be depleted in the certain class of plant food required to develop that crop. ♦ * ♦ ♦ JOen to Water Pot Plants Periodically correspondents write asking: "How often should my plants be watered f” Now, that is a question which no one has yet been able to answer. The only sensible reply is “When they need watering,” but that is unsatisfactory and even annyoing. Let it is very true. I have never met an amateur gardener who could tell when a pot plant was in need of water. A professional gardener seems to know intuitively, and intuition comes only through long experience. He manages to keep the soil “just nicely moist,” whereas under the amateur’s management it usually becomes sodden and sonr. I do not think better advice can be given than to water when tho soil, is moderately dry. and then to give enough to moisten it thoroughly. ♦ * * * Grow Better Dahlias

Dahlias are easily grown, and there is no mystery in growing the large blooms that you see in the dahlia shows. We offer the following suggestions on their culture:— Do not plant too early. Select your planting places in an open, sunny position, away from trees and buildings, if possible. Prepare the soil by digging it 12 to 18 nches deep. After this dig holes about 6 inches deep and 4 feet apart, and mix a handful of bone meal or pulverised sheep manure in each hole, mixing it thoroughly with the soil, and plant the tuber H»t on it* side, with the eye or sprout facing upward. Then cover with about three inches of soil, leaving the balance to be tilled in as the plant grows. Remember the size of the tuber makes no difference. A small tuber will give just as large blooms as a big one. After two weeks, if more than one sprout comes up. remove all but the strongest spout. As soon as the plant has grown to show three sets of leaves, the top should be pinched out. This causes the plant to branch out and in some eases does away with staking. Cultivate and hoe at least once a week, being careful not to hoe too deep as to injure the small feeder roots; keep the beds free from weeds. If the season is very dry water thoroughly, at least once a week. After the buds appear, the ground should be mulched with manure or a handful of bone meal, as the fertiliser given the plant now will help feed the buds and give you larger blossoms. ♦ ♦ ♦ ♦ 4n Explanation Needed

(Freak flowers have been abundant this year. As with’ nearly all gardening troubles, the weather is at the root of the mischief.—" Evening News.”) The poor old weather’s got the bird For making flowers grow In freakish ways and shapes which do Their owners puzzle so. The poor old weather gets the bird For quite a lot of things, For nearly everyone at times At it some insult flings. But no one yet has seemed to think The poor old weather may Be answerable for the freaks That one meets every day. Those people who will live on nuts, Or eat Potatoes raw, Or meat of any kind eschew, Like dear old Bernard Shaw. Of folks who dress in garments weird, An sandals on their feet Instead of shoes display, and go Bareheaded through the street. And all the other cranks and freaks That you can call to mind, Of whom a tidy number you In any place will find. Now what, pray, is the reason for These folks behaving so? The weather can't be blamed for it, And, frankly, I don't know. 1 only can surmise that it Is simply cussedness For any other reason is Beyond me, I’ll confess. —Toby. ♦ ♦ ♦ » Take Geranium Cuttings COMMENCE IMMEDIATELY. The time has now arrived when cuttings of perennial border plants should be taken. Of all this class of plants none is more popular than tho scarlet geranium. These are used in practically every garden, and if one is observant they must have noticed that the best blooms are produced from the young growth. Old, ragged bushes are unsighfly, and new stock should be taken every autumn for planting out in early spring. Now is the best time to commence this work, as they will stnxe much better while there is still sunshine and natural’warmth to help ipr. In every case thq enttings jSjuld be

made from the young tips, which should be long enough to permit two joints to be buried in the ground and still leave two above. Taking the Cuttings i A sharp knife should be used when making the cuttings, so that they may be severed cleanly from the bush. Bruised or broken off pieces are not so likely to root. Strip the two bottom leaves off the steam which srould be cut quite level just below a joint. Allow the leaves to remain on top as they help the cutting to exist while they are making root. The soil should be light and friable with a good perceneage of sand mixed with it. Five cuttings may be struck in a 6-inch pot. Care must be taken that there is good drainage, otherwise the cuttings may rot. The instructions given for Geranium cuttings may be applied to Ageratum, Calceolaria, bronze and yel- - Heliotrope. Lantana and Mar£ir ff’Ss