WOMEN’S WORLD.

Manawatu Standard, Volume LIII, Issue 24, 24 December 1932, Page 11

WOMEN’S WORLD.

v Mrs L. A. Elliott, of Feilding, has been visiting Paraparaumu. Mrs G. A. Forrest, of Palmerston North, is spending the holidays at Parapaxaumu.. Mr and Graham, of Feilding, are spending the holidays at Takapuna, Auckland. Miss D. Edwards, of Palmerston North, intends to spend a holiday at New Brighton, Christchurch. Mr and Mrs H. Clark, of Wellington, are to spend Christmas with Mr and Mrs llay Bailey, Feilding. Mr and Mrs Lloyd Knox, of Wellington are visiting Mrs Knox’s parents, Mr and Mrs G. Sauer, Feilding. Mr and. Mrs H. G. Davidson and Misses S. and L. Davidson, of Feilding, are spending a holiday at Paraparaumu. Mrs Fitzroy Horneman and Miss May Horneman, of Havelock North, are the guests of Mr E. and Miss P. Goodbehere, Feilding. Mr and Mrs B. 0. Stennett, of Sydney, are visiting New Zealand. Mrs Stennett is better known to New Zealand listeners-in as ‘‘Aunt Gwen,” of 2Y A. Alderman Walder, Lord Mayor of Sydney, Mrs Walder, and their two children left Sydney by the Monowai yesterday on a holiday visit to New Zealand. Miss ltoma McClure and Mr A. G. McClure, of W'elliugton, are to spend the holidays with then parents, Mr and Mrs C. B. McClure, Highfieid Koad, Feilding. Miss G. Blamires, after seven years’ service in Tonga as principal of a girls’ college, returned to Christchurch this week.- She is staying with her brother, Rev. H. L. Blamires, and Mrs Blamires. The engagement is announced of Douglas \v lliiain Ashley, eldest son of Mr and Mrs J. J. Barker, of Palmerston North, to Elsie May, eldest daugh-ter-of Mr and Mrs It. Owen, ol Foxton. The National Diploma in Dairying has been obtameu by Miss Nona Fins, of Parktown, s>outh Africa. This diploma is granted after a high grade examination, held under the combined auspices of the Boyai Agricultural isociety of England, tne Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland, and tue British Dairy Farmers’ Association, and lias worid-wiae recognition. The standard set is so high that out of the 56 students who sat lor the examination from all England, only 24 passed.

COSTUMES OF THE 19TH CENTURY.

A PARADE OF iuu DRISSSES.

A display of English women’s fashions of the 19th century, illustrated by a parade of 100 dresses from the collection of Dr. C. Wiliett Cunnington, who described their history, was given at Hampstead (London) Town Hall recently in aid of Hampstead General Hospital. The dresses were worn by ladies of the district who acted as mannequins. . Dr. Willett Cunnington described his gowns as having been worn by women in comfortable circumstances between 1800 and 1900. He explained the influences that were at work at each period of the century, which produced an emphasis on lines, angles or curves. Since the Great War there had been the same .emphasis on vertical lines as in the period beginning 1795. Wherever the vertical influence was seen in dress one found it also influencing decoration and furniture. From 1820-1865 1865 there was an emphasis on angles, and from 1866-1910 an epoch of curves. The post-War anti-sentimental attitude marked the same type of mind which produced the vertical fashions following the French Revolution, when there was an enormous enthusiasm toi new ideas shown in the pseudo-classical styles of the period. In 1825 there was a complete change of mentality and of dress showing the return to sentiment. The epoch of curves, 1866-1910, was described as an age of sex-repression, accentuating in fashion what was lepressed in feelings.

BUSTLE AND CRINOLINE.

The group of dresses included many of great beauty. Gowns of the Consulate and Directoire period appeared to suffer from a lack of accessories. Those of the Empire period were more interesting, and one saw the vertical period modified and growing more becoming. Epaulette shoulders and skirt rouleaus were seen in the Restoration period of 1815-1825 and also the appearance of the early leg-o’-mutton sleeve in a denngigot, later to appear in greater fullness The bustle appeared in 1828 and a beautiful morning dress of white English muslin printed with green foliage and made with a pointed bodice —similar to that worn by Fanny Kemble in a picture dated 1829—fluttered with sentiment. A little later ; came the crinoline petticoat of horsehair, worn under five or six other petticoats to link the sentimental with the domestic period in the days when velvet trimmings and the first small bonnets came into fashion. Throughout the series of groups Dr. Willett Cunnington commented on the phases of dress. In the seventies women “mourned with gusto,” as seen in the gown of “mitigated grief” for half mourning in white cambrio edged with black and in the widow’s dress ill heavy black gros-grain with white cap, cuffs and collar. He called attention to the Stuart neckline popular in the Rococo period of 1875-1877 as being one of the most becoming in any. ago.

DEATH OF MRS G. F. RICHARDSON

Tho death is reported of Mrs G. F. Richardson, widow of the late Hon. G. F. Richardson, of Wellington, and one of the district’s early pioneers. Born at Honfleur. France, 85 years ago, Mrs Richardson was a daughter of the late Mr Thomas White, of Tudlow Castle, England, and a grand-daughter of the late Sir Richard White, Bart., and of tho late Admiral Sir John McKellar, R.N., and niece of the late Lord George Townsliend. She came to New Zealand as a child, and settled near Mataura, Southland, in the early days, and saw much of tho rough pioneering work at that time. In the late ’sixties she married the late Mr Richardson, who was then the ownor of “Oaklands” station, Mataura, and who subsequently was member for the district for many years. In her younger days she was a brave and splendid horsewoman. She spent much of her leisure time with her brush, being specially gifted in the handling of bush scenery and seascapes. Mrs Richardson leaves a family of five—Mrs Andrew Knox, of Pahiatua; Misses E. and F. Richardson, Mr F. Richardson, of Wellington; and Major H. M. W. Richardson, D. 5.0., M.C., of Blenheim.

CROQUET.

In a match for the Gilbert Hoops, played on the Takaro Croquet Club’s greens on Wednesday, the holders, Mesames Anstis and Burnett, beat Mesdames Glass and Williams (Dannevirke), 26—14.

LONDON FASHIONS.

UNDERWEAR AND STOCKINGS. In a season of closely moulded figures it is not surprising that the bias line is to be seen in underwear. Attempts are being made to introduce a new liigliwaisted sts’le somewhat after the fashions of 1912, with straight bodice and slightly gored skirt, but, generally speaking, this does not lend itself to present-day purposes (says a fashion note in the London Times). Nightdresses are cut on tho cross, either backless, with shoulder straps of lace, or with cut-up backs. There may be shoulder trimmings of bows, wide ruffles to suggest a large armhole, or even capelets and elbow puff sleeves. Trimmings take the form of tucks,’ laco in insets or edgings, and embroidery to match the material or the lace. With these are worn little jackets like evening' coatees. When a nightdress is lacetrimmed the jacket repeats this trimming. They have full sleeves, or wide

frills of the material, or may fit closely witli many rows of gauging. Pyjamas look well in such heavy silk as milanese or satin. Dressing gowns, also on severe tailored lines, of velvet, corduroy, rayon, or heavy striped silk in the darker shades, may be lined with liuns-veililig for warmth. If made of Shetland and lined with chiffon or crepe-do-chine, they are cut less severely and may bo trimmed with swansdown, fur, or wide ruchings. The new finely knitted silk for underwear is combined with the lightest, angora wool for warmth. It is pf the finest lace texture, and is for petticoats and slips with brassiere tops, or backless one-piece garments for cold evenings. Stockings of the lighter shades have been worn in the early part of the season, but there is now a leaning to darker tones. The best are those which lend themselves to any colour of costume and accessories. For sports wear hand-embroidered silk clocks appear in contrasting colours on stockings of silk and wool, and even of heavy silk. There are also designs of shepherd’s plaid, block patterns, and tweed effects in silk and fine wool. For town and evening wear these patterns are repented in stockings of silk chiffon. MILLINERY, GLOVES AND SHOES Hats at the moment present a problem. If a hat is very shallow at the back it has to be adapted for those who find it unbecoming; and while it is pleasant, after a period of severe and untrimmejl shapes, to return to trimmed hats, trimming is not free from difficulties. Many hats which look well enough when worn with big fur collars cease to look well witlrout them. However, new hat succeeds new hat, and a great deal of interest is taken in the business of making, pulling, patting, perking, and adapting them to heads (says a fashion note in the London Times). Some of the more becoming shapes show a Russian influence and suit older women; others, with the tilt of the nineties and a trimming over one eye are like bonnets without the strings and demand carefully waved and dressed hair. All the new hats, except a few odd-looking new tarns and jersey and facecloth caps, appear to have some kind of trimming; and

all arc turned up or shallow at the back to slioV the hair.

A very new amber-coloured antelope skin hat has a forest of burnt feather resembling osprey round the squashed crown; on the right head it looks very well. Another, of felt is like a fantastic cloche, with a forward tilt over one eye and a satin ribbon bow, apparently dropping off the brim. Felt, satin, antelope, and velvet make many new hats. A felt cap designed like Dick Whittington’s lias the peak pulled well forward and decorated with two upstanding quills at the back. Now caps of jersey and crochet or knitting are in odd funnel shapes, to prevent, as it would seem, the industrious from knitting or crocheting them for themselves. Gloves are less conventional than they have been. Velvet gloves, which are more a fad than a fashion, have been mMle for the day and the evening. Long velvet gloves to matcl\ velveteen and velvet evening frocks have appeared, but for those who do not like so much velvet th’Sre are shorter evening gloves of suede with gauntlets in panne; other velvet evening gloves are made with very wide gauntlets that do not reach quite to the elbow. The length of afternoon sleeves determines the length of gloves. On fur coats there are sleeves reaching just to the elbow or a little below; with these long gloves with shaped gauntlets are worn.

WOMEN’S CLOTHES.

“A PERFECT MANIA FOR CHANGES.” Dlr E. H. Symonds, chairman and managing director of Reville, Limited, and president of the British Fashions and Fabrics Bureau, discussed the importance of fashion to manufacturers and distributors, in a recent address to students at the Barrett Street Trade School, London. To-day, he said, there was no greater force in world-trading than fashion, using tho word in its widest application. The present-day woman, in almost every station of life and of almost every age, had for s’ome years cultivated a perfect mania for changes. Colour selection was now the bane of manufacturers’ and distributors’ lives. The greatest contriution to the fashion education of women could be claimed by our national newspapers. Special fashion features' and photographs were a comparatively modern development in the newspaper world, although the London Times from about the year 1800 published fashion news under the heading “Fashions for the Month.” When Nelson was blockading the coast of France the Paris fashion news regularly appeared in the Times, for an

arrangement had been arrived at between the two Governments for one ship to be allowed to pass through the blockade each month, bringing to this country the latest fashion news among other things.

JELLIED APPLES.

Peel and core without breaking some small apples of a good colour. Cook them until tender in syrup. Remove and place in a glass dish. Add the juice of an orange and of a lemon to the syrup and a little clove flavouring. Make the liquid up to a pint and add a packet of jelly crystals. When dissolved pour over the apples. When set spread thickly with whipped cream and decorate top with pink or green-colour-ed coconut and a lew chopped walnuts.