A.—3a

8

comparing the state of this island with that of others where European influence is not felt, I am of opinion that the presence of the Prench at Tahiti has been very beneficial, and it is to be regretted that their settlements in the Marquesas have been abandoned, although, doubtless they were expensive to keep up." Low AEcmr-ELAGo, oe Paumotu Geotjp. This vast collection of coral islands, one of the w 7ondcrs of the Pacific, extends over sixteen degrees of longitude, without taking into consideration the detached islands to the S.E. of it. They are all of them of similar character, and exhibit very great sameness in their features. When they are seen at a distance, which cannot be great on account of their lowness, the aspect is one of surpassing beauty, if the dry part of the island or belt is sufficiently covered with trees; but much of this beauty is dispelled on a nearer approach, as the vegetation is usually found to be scanty and wiry. Tho archipelago, like the adjoining groups of the Marquesas and the Society Islands, are under the Prench protectorate. There are seventy-eight islands ; eighteen are uninhabited, and sixteen are still occupied by savage tribes. These are in the south-eastern parts of the group, farthest removed from the civilizing neighbourhood of Tahiti. The western portion is divided by the Prench into four groups or circles ; that to the west with eight islands, tho north with five, the centre with fourteen, the eastern of seventeen islands. They are all coralline or lagoon reefs, with three exceptions, and a few have entrances for large vessels. The native population of the entire archipelago only amounts to 3,500, of which 700 arc still uncivilized. There has been much improvement of late in their houses and clothing, to procure which they have opened some branches of industry, the chief of which is cocoa-nut oil and mother-of-pearl shell. Maeqtjesas Aeciiipelago. The Marquesas Archipelago is composed of two tolerably distinct groups, lying in a general N.W. and S.E. direction, between the parallels of lat. 7° 50' and 10* 31' S., and long. 138° 39' and 140° 46' W. They are all of volcanic origin, very high, and may be seen in clear weather at fifteen or twenty leagues distance. The sovereignty of the group was ceded to France by a treaty with Admiral Dv Petit Thouars, in May, 1842, and a military colony was established in Taiohai Bay, at Nukuhiva, but the result was in no way commensurate with the expense of tho establishment; and this, after the experiment lasted seventeen years, was abandoned on January Ist, 1859. Nuka-hiva is the principal island of the Marquesas Archipelago. It is seventeen miles in length from east to west, and ten miles broad. It has been frequently visited and described, and its inhabitants are perhaps the best known of any in the archipelago. The population of this island was estimated by Captain Krusenstern, when he visited it in 1804, at IS,OOO. Notwithstanding tho opinion of Krusenstcrn that his estimate for so large an island was low in 1804, it is reduced to 8,000 by the estimate of M. de Tessan in 1838, and to 2,690 by Lieutenant Jouan in 1856 ! O-hiva-oa, or La Dominica, is tho most fertile, the most populous (6,000 inhabitants), and the most important for its productions of the whole archipelago. It is about twenty-one miles long from E. by N. to S. by W., and seven miles in its average breadth. The following remarks aro from the report of Commodore E. A. Powell, C.8., of H.M.S. " Topaze," 1867 :— " Magdalena Island.- —On .Tune Bth, at 9 a.m., the island of Magdalena was sighted, bearing W.-JN., and distant forty miles, tho summit of the high mountain being observed in tho clouds. The eastern side of the island is extremely rugged, steep ridges coming down from the central mountain, and terminating in high precipices over the sea. Very few of the valleys or gorges appeared to reach the beach, so that, independent of a dangerous surf which dashed against the rocks, landing would have been quite impracticable. On the north and south sides of the island the land sloped more regularly towards the sea, but there was no landing. " Point Venus, on the south side, is a perpendicular rocky cliff, about 700 feet high, overhanging tho sea, which breaks within a few yards of its base; from some points of view the break assumes the appearance of a reef extending out further than it really does. Bon Eepos Bay is immediately round Point Venus, on the western side of the island, and the best anchorage is about a mile from the shore in seventeen fathoms, opposite a shingly beach, with the valley well open. This bay is open to westerly winds, which, according to tho native account, blow occasionally with great force from December to March, which would appear to be the bad months. A heavy surf rolls continually on the beach, but landing can be effected on the rocks on the north side of the bay. Water can be obtained, but with difficulty, as boats must lie a considerable distance from the beach where the stream comes down. The'valley, which winds up among the hills from the bottom of the bay, is very beautiful, being covered with the rich foliage of tropical fruit trees, whilst tho native cottages and huts, sheltered under tho bread-fruit, cocoa-nut, and orange trees, add greatly to the attractiveness of the scene. " Pruits of all descriptions are to be procured in sufficient quantities to refresh a large ship's company, but meat and vegetables are very scarce, pigs and poultry being the only animal food. The inhabitants are supposed to be less than 500 in number, and aro said to bo fast decreasing ; this may be attributed to the prevailing custom of polygamy, as well as to continual warfare, which exists between the tribes inhabiting the two principal valleys. " The Prench have practically given up all control over the natives, whose only intercourse with foreigners is confined to the crows of the few whalers that occasionally call for supplies. They are to all appearance in the same primitive state they were described to bo in one hundred years ago ; for though some have Polynesian Bibles and all profess Christianity, they still practise the same heathenish rites, and entertain the same superstitions as formerly, whilst cannibalism yet exists in connection with prisoners of war. " The men, who are of ordinary stature, with good features, are rendered hideous by tatooing ; the women are fairer than the men, and pleasant looking, as they aro only tatooed on the face, with a few