POVERTY BAY AND ITS PROGRESS.

Gisborne Times, Volume IX, Issue 854, 31 March 1903, Page 3

POVERTY BAY AND ITS PROGRESS.

No. 1. [By k.m.d. in N.Z. lierald.j Tho district which received from Captain Cook the misnomer of Poverty Bay is worthy of special notice at the present time, on account of the undoubted strides in substantial progress, evident from recent statistics, and from tho outward and visible signs of prosperity presented to tho tourist of this beautiful and interesting portion of the East Coast. Historic associations must ever closely cling around the locality from a variety of reasons. Into this charming bay Captain steered

his barque on sighting the New Zealand coast, tho picturesque white cliffs, the western boundary, first catching the sight of the cabin boy, Nicholas Young, and receiving thenceforth tho name of Young Nick’s Head. Viewed from the wide, firm sandy beach bordering the bay this headland at all times presents a charming aspect from an artist’s point of view. Captain Cook, I believe, lay off during the night and mado his entrance in the early dawn, drawing up at tho anchorage which proved suitable to the present day, and effecting his landing at the boat harbor frequently used until recent times, when a breakwater—alas l at present no great success—has somewhat altered the aspect of tho shore. This breakwater and boat harbor aro situated on the somewhat rocky shore forming the eastern boundary of the bay, and immediately above them rises tho elevation known as the Kaiti Hill, the whole shore and eastern locality bearing the name of Kaiti, a former dwell-ing-place of many Maoris, who found good fishing ground along the coast, among the ridge-like papa rocks so evident at low tide, and which tells a geological tale of high land-fallen away into the sea, the present papa cliffs continuing to slip and make fresh shore. The papa clay gives a dazzling whiteness to the cliffs where they break away, and the material being soft soon melts into the sea, or forms a slippery surface by mingling with sand and shell. It is at the foot of the Kaiti Hill that the projected monument to Captain Cook in commemoration of his first landing may be erected, when sufficient. funds have been collected to do proper justice to the

subject. We will imagine then that the presentday tourist arrives by one of our modern steamboats, and with Captain Cook well in his mind surveys the scene. On his left lies tho western boundary of the bay, with Young Nick’s Head gleaming in the sunshine; on the right lies Kaiti, or eastern boundary, with its. picturesque coast line, dotted with seaside cottages, and characterised by tho hill which attracted Cook's attention, and under the shadow of which he landed. On the northern shore, facing the tourist as he stands upon the deck, lies tho town of Gisborne, concealed in quite a forest of trees —bluegums, firs, poplars, etc., not native bush—which did not exist on this sandy plain, even at the time of Cook. The Kaiti, however, ; was then wooded to the water’s edge and covered with flax and native growth. Tea-tree scrub doubtless covered the northern plain, which then, as now, was intersected by a considerable river, and by the Waikanae Stream, a shallow tidal inlet, running parallel with the northern beach, has retarded the usefulness of tho lands, these forming a barrier between the town and the shore, and degenerating into swamp lands, extending some eight or ten miles inland, an excellent duck-sliooting locality, but unsatisfactory from a pastoral point of view.

Drainage works may one day render this portion of the flats both healthy and valuable, improvements already showing in consequence of planting and occupation. A wide extent of useful plain, once a sandy Hat, but now adapted to pastoral and residential purposes, lies between this Waikauae Stream and the Taruheru Biver, which intersects the plain from west to south, and upon the banks of which industries and residences alike are situated. Nolson's Freezing Works, the centre of a most important local industry, are built upon this river, at about three miles from its outlet. Quite a considerable township is formed by the employees and thoso closely connected with the company, with library, reading-rooms, and halls for various purposes, besides the extensive buildings necessary for the works. On entering the river on the right are the extensive buildings of the Gisborne Farmers’ Freezing Works, which have changed hands from Messrs Common, Sholton, and Co., the foundors and originators of these important works. Tho town of Gisborne is situated on the opposite or western side of the river, and is soon seen to present an imposing and progressive appearance. Tho river is wide, possessing a deep channel, and is busy with coastal steamers, schoonors, cutters, and all such craft as can find sufficient water. The wharfage accommodation is being rapidly extended along the river-side up to the town. Tho river is handsomely bridged by an erection known as the Ivaiti Bridge, about a-quarter of a mile from the river mouth, there being a straight course from entrance to bridge. The wharfage accommodation now extends throughout this length, and dredging operations are being carried on with a view to deepening the channel and strengthening the banks, upon which willows and other trees are planted, with a useful as well as an ornamental purpose. The banks thus planted form a kind of esplanado, to which front the handsome Courthouse and several public buildings, with warehouses and other business premises, Dalgety’s being conspicuous. At present passengers land at the lower wharf, but as further improvements are effected it is intended to land at the bridge, commanding an immediate entrance to the main street of tho town.

Standing on this bridge a most interesting view is obtained, both from a scenic and a commercial point. From the former aspect, it is very beautiful and unique. The junction of two rivers is on the right, as one faces tho town. Beautiful wooded hills dominate tho junction, and cast lovely shadows in the still, deep water ; on tho left are tho wharves and shipping, with their boautiful reflections. The street of the town is very wide, and white, and straight, narrowing far away in a dim perspective, ending in tho sunset if it bo the evening time. Near by on the esplanado is the very handsome new post office, a building which would arrest attention anywhere, from its size, architecture, and beauty. As one walks up the street one is greatly struck with tho substantial progress that has been made during tho three last years or so, some very handsome buildings, such as the now Coronation Hotel, replacing shabby old ones. This jis really a handsome building, covering a very oxtensivo street frontage, and artistically decorated with balconies the width of the footpath, which is street wide. Thoso who were responsible for tho laying out and planting of the town of Gisborne are to bo congratulated on the handsome width givon to the streets and footways, laying a foundation of a beautiful, and it is to bo hoped, healthful city. A great contrast to some other towns, whose narrow streets baffle efforts at improvement, and hinder traffic. There is plenty of room for the electric tramcar and other public improvements in the Gisborno streets. All the cross streets show the same fine width, and are now in excellent condition, demonstrating the enterprise of former city fathers, as the jonly metal procurable is quarried twelve miles away, and conveyed by cartage. Land in tho centre of the town has been recently sold at .£9O per foot, which in itself speaks for the rise which has taken place in town values, owing to the increasing demand. The borough valuations have been raised last yoar by nearly two-thirds. In the centre of the town all available situations have been built over. The cross streets lead again to the river banks, which have been sloped, planted with grass and trees, railed in, and provided with gravelled walks and seats. This work, which is evident on both sides of the river, is duo to the efforts of the Beautifying Socioty, which has also accomplished other work of a substantial decorative nature. A long bridge over the Taruherii Biyer conducts us to the suburb known as North Gisborne, or Whataupoko, which during the last few years has sprung up into an extensive, beautiful, and flourishing settlement, carrying suburban residences with grounds sloping towards either tho Taruheru or Waimata Bivers ; the hills in the background having yielded rapidly to cultivation and settlement, extending as far as the eye can see. When from some elevated point one surveys the whole district, containing many miles of wealthy and flourishing plains, closely covered with settlement, it is difficult to carry the mind back thirty-four years, and picture the desolation wrought bv Te Kooti’s band, when tho scattered homesteads wero burnod to the ground, and the settlers fled in terrified groups beforo the unsparing hand of the desperate savage. Of those who perished in the .murderous raid, a memorial remains in tho monument erected in the cemetery, three or four miles from tho town, which bears the names of those who fell in the Poverty Bay massacre, in number about 512.

Points here and (here upon (he plain hear a historic interest, as the scene of different engagements which took place during the Maori war, both before and after Te Kooti’s cclehrated raid. Residents now living well rememher the time when a large number of the early settlers, with many women and children, under guards, lived for refuge in the old Courthouse which existed near where Adair's line stone store now stands, and Hie whole site of which is rapidly becoming covered now with high buildings of wood and iron for commercial and other purposes. . The old Courthouse itself was bodily removed to another position in the town where it is still utilised as an ironmongery establishment. Gisborne, being the only outlet for tlie industries of a very large area of coastal country, naturally shows the results of an increasing trade with increasing settlement. - The new railway, already open for traflie, promises an increased communication with the important outlying districts (with which it is the purpose of the writer to deal, in succeeding numbers —showing tlie results obtained by the steady, persevering efforts of those who have broken in vast areas oi country during tlie last few years, braving every difficulty placed in their way by man, or tlie rough, though, perhaps, kindly, hand of Nature).