THE NIMROD

Gisborne Times, Volume XXVII, Issue 2461, 27 March 1909, Page 5

THE NIMROD

LIEUT. SHACKLETON’S STORY

A THRILLING NARRATIVE

(Press Association.) $

CIiItISTCMJRCH, March 26 ; Lieutenant Shackleton, continuing his narrative, said:— On our return journey we picked up our outward sledge tracks, and this was fortunate, because the blizzard had blown away the flags from the poles. After that, with a sail up on tlie sledge (the sail being improvised out of .one c ! f tlie floorcloths of the tent), we did 'marches daily, assisted by the wind, of distances ranging from 20 to 29 miles, crossing crevasses at full speed. We reached the upper glacier depot on the 19th January.

THE EXPLORERS’ HARDSHIPS—THEIR FOOD EXHAUSTED.

The travelling down the glacier was not. so easy a job as we bad expected. We bad only left four days’ food to carry us to the depot at the. foot of the glacier, but owing to the bad crevasses, rendered worse by the snow which covered them lower down, our travelling was very slow- On the morning of the 26tli January we had finished all our food. Oar last meal consisted of boiled lionv and maize. Seeing the absolute necessity of reaching tlie : depot, we tried to make forced marches through the deep snow and amongst tlie crevasses, but we only succeeded by 2 a.m._ on tlie morning of the :27th in covering 16 miles in 22 hours’ hauling. We eventually reached within a mile of our depot on the afternoon of the 27th, and whilst some of us .pitched camp. Dr Mat shall went on and got some food, consisting of horse meat and biscuits, from the depot. Adams fell half an hour before we came to camp in his harness, but directly lie recovered a little, he went on again pulling. After leaving the depot we soon got on to the ice harrier again, and reached Grcsi depot on 3rd February.’Wild during this time was suffering from dysentery, due to something being wrong with the horse meat. After leavino- Gresi depot the whole party was similarly affected, and for one whole day we were unable to leave camp at all'.

A CHRISTMAS DINNER. Helped by strong southerly winds, wo eventually reached Chinaman depot, with no food remaining. At Chinaman depot we loaded horse, meat, and digging down in the snow, found the frozen blood of the horse. This we added to our stock of food, the daily ration now consisting of (for the whole day) one pannikin of hall-cooked horse meat, with blood, and four biscuits, two pannikins of tea, -and half «■ spoon.nl of cocoa in warm water per man. H e reached depot ‘ f A ? with no ioocl left. We reached the Bluff depot, helped by strong southerly winds, on Bth beb-l-uary. This depot was made by Joyce in January, and here, for the seem:, time since the middle of November, we had a square meal. The other time was on Christmas Day, on the plateau, when we had a. full feed, consisting of pemmican, pony ration, .emergency oxol, and a small nlmn pudding, weighing about half a pound. We boiled the plum pudding in the cocoa water to save oil. ' Leaving the Bluff depot, we made a forced march on the second day of 24 miles, as Dr Marshall had a relapse of dysentery, and we were very anxious to get to the ship as early as possible. Though be was suffering much, he kept going in his harness all that day. On the 17th in the afternoon, lie was too ill to proceed, but although he wished to go on, I. decided to leave Him in camp, with Adams in charge, wuilsi Wild and I pushed on to tlie ship for relief. We reached liutt Point in a blizzard on the 28th. RELIEVED BY THE SHIP. On the morning of the Ist March we heliographed the ship, which had been lying at shelter at Glacier Tongue. At 2 o’clock the same afternoon, wit.i a relief party of three men, McKay, Alarson, and McGillan, we started back to pick up the rest of our party. V e found Dr Marshall much better, and eventually we all arrived at Hutt Point late on the 3rd March. We burnt a flare as a signal to the ship, which picked us up early on the 4th. During the morning wc sailed north, and only just in time, for we were two days pushing through heavy new pancake ice. We tried to push to the westward beyond Cape North, but were bold up by heavy old pack ice, not before we bad found 45 miles of new coast mountains, ranging from 5000 to 7000 feet in height. After a boisterous passage we arrived at Half-moon Bay on the 23rd March. THE SOUTH MAGNETIC POLE. In answer to a question regarding the expedition that resulted in the attaining of the magnetic Pole, Lieutenant iShackleton said that this had been a very important part of the. work, and was a most difficult one for those who engaged in it. This party did SOO miles of relay work over the sea ice. They hauled one sledge for a certain distance, then returned, and hauled up the other sledge, and did this from sth October to 15th December, and under the relay system every mile of ground had to be covered three timers. Tlie (surface of the sea ice was very sticky with-salt, and made the sledge travelling extremely laborious. 1 •What about the provisions?” asked the reporter. “The party had,” Lieutenant Shackleton said,.“to eke out their provisions and live on seal and penguin meat. One of them, tasting the seal oil in the blubber lamp, pronounced it excellent, and from that time on seal blubber was part of the menu. The party was entirely unsupported by ponies, and their provisions were much the same as ours, excepting that they had dried milk instead of plasmon. The equipment was similar to ours.” “Could you say a word as to the importance of the attainment of the Pole?” asked the reporter. “Mawson with tlie Lloyd creak dip circles absolutely fixed the position of the south magnetic Pole, which is a matter of great interest to science, and helps the forwarding of that branch of knowledge. It is a matter of great importance in all magnetic survey work. A TRYING EXPERIENCE.

“This party arrived at a point on the sea coast, on a glacier 180 miles from winter quarters, with practically no provisions except, a few, biscuits. On arrival there they obtained seals and penguins. I had left instructions at winter quarters that if they had not returned there by the Idt February the ship was to search the coast for them. This seems a fairly simple tiling to do, but one must realise that it was a practically unknown coast, with heavy pack, ice extending out from it, and Captain Evans had a most trying job manoeuvring in tli.n blizzards and through the pack ice, whilst going up

the coast to search for a black flag only about two feet wide. He went as far as Cape Washington, and then, keeping inshore again on the way south, searching every inlet and nook, lie arrived at the spot where the northern party had come to camp only 16 hours earlier. He. sighted the tent, fired a double detonator, and the three men came rushing out. “Mawson. immediately fell' dqwn a crevasse, aud was held up on a snow abutment twenty feet below, and was pulled out by'the party from the ship, so that in a moment the gloomy jrospect in front of them was changed, and they were in comfort.” “Previously to picking up the northern party,” continued Lieut. Shaekleton., in answer to further questions, “aH the Nimrod was steaming across MGMurdo Sound, on the 24th January, a heliograph was observed flashing in the western shore. Pushing through iche broken pack ice, Captain Evans picked up the'western party, consisting of Annytage, Brocklelmvst, and Priestley. This party had been exploring and doing geological work in the west. On the 22nd they were camped off Butler Point, on the apparently fast ice.A STARTLING ADVENTUREAFLOAT ON .A FLOE.

“Woking up on the morning of the 23rd they found the ice had broken up in the night, and they were drifting north on a floe. Fortunately the current set south that night. At midnight One corner of the floe touched the land ice, and in three minutes they had ail their equipment across into safety, and immediately after the floe went north to tlie open sea for good. Next day they observed the 'ship in the distance 11 miles off, and heliographed t© her.

THE WORK OF THE NIMROD. “When the ship first arrived in McMurdo Sound on January sth, Captain Evans despatched a party of four men, with Mclntosh in charge, to convey the mails to Cape Royds over tthe apparently fast ice. The same night two of the men returned to the ship, and continuin<r the next day Mclntosh found the ice breaking up. By jumping from floe to floe they just managed to reach the land ice with the mail bags in safety. After remaining nearly a week by Mount Bird they decided to push overland across the mountains to Cape Royds, ,2S miles distant. They got into very much crevassed country, and McGillan went down, a crevasse, being hauled out by Mclntosh, who improvised a rope out of a belt and a bit of line. The equipment was lost in this crevasse, except a camera and a sack of chocolates. However, they pushed on, glissading down ice slopes amongst crevasses, and eventually reaching the vicinity ©f Cape Royds in a blizzard on the following day, where they were found' greatly exhausted by Day, who happened to have left the hut. At- the time they were not aware that they were so close to the but, and were walking round and round in a circle trying to keep warm. “Capt. Evans, with tlie Nimrod, had arrived at Cape Royds on the 6th of March, and hearing that Mclntosh was not there, left at once m search. Ihe Nimrod was caught m the pack, and subjected to severe pressure for 10 days. Eventually she was extricated and returned to Cape Royds. RESULTS OF-THE EXPEDITION. Asked regarding the general results of the expedition.. Lieut. Shackleton said that the geology of the country had naturallv been well looked after. As we had three geologists'on board, Prof. David, F.R.S., and Douglas Mason, 8.E., and 8.5. C., and Raymond Priestley, very good collections were made, but at the present time we cannot say the full value of the various finds, because they have to be examined microscopically'in the biological department. There' is a distinct new feature in the finding of the miscroscopic animals in the lakes. Murray, the biologist, is an authority on this particular branch. One peculiar thing about tlie rotifers is that, instead of laying eggs as they do in temperate climates, they bring forth their young alive, and they can exist in the very lowest tempoiaturee, and even in ice, and yet water of 200 deg. beat will not kill them. Prof. David considers that the meteorological records and information gained are one of tlie most important features of the scientific work, and will be especiallj important to New Zealand and AustralU“As the upper currents of the atmosphere have an effect on Australasian weather, observations of the steam cloud on Mt. Erebus have been of great importance in determining the direction of movements of the upper currents of the atmosphere. Other physical and scientific blenches have been carefully worked at. It is interesting to note that tlie New Zealand and Australian magneticians predicted good auroral display/s in the. south, and we had exceptionally brilliant auroraSpn fact we have a photograph taken with an ordinarv camera which shows distinctly the auroral light. . . “As regards zoology, Jpyce looked particularly after this branen, and ve have a good collection of penguins, seals etc. Various museums in Australasia will be given specimens of the fauna and geological collections, also the marine animals. “As far as exploration is concerned the expedition has been eminently successful. No one, of course, is ever satisfied with his work, but certainly, as adding something to our. knowledge of the Far South the expedition has been successful. It lias drawn back the veil a little more from the four million square miles that have been bidden from man up to the present. “There is one thing wc are. certain of, that the geographical South Pole is situated on a high plateau, which experiences the coldest and stormiest weather in the world, where in the height of summer it its possible to get 70 dog. of frost, and one can realise a little from this what the weather must bo like in the winter.” SPLENDID WORK.

lu. answer to a question regarding the work or the staff, Lieut. Sbackleton said that everybody got on splendidly together. Everyone not only was interested in his own department, hut ready to help in other departments when the need arose. Mon who had gone clown there to engage in a particular branch of science were quite willing to give a hand wherever it was wanted. * ONLY 97 MILES TO BE DONE. “Yes, it is always possible to do everything in the. world,” said Lieut. Shaekleton, “even to reach...the South Role. We gained a groat deal naturally from the Discovery’s expedition, end the next man will gain much from this expedition. There remain only 97 miles to be clone, and one thing is certain that the food must be increased if flie party are to do the distance, because on a plateau such as that with intense, cold our loot! was not sufficient.” ~

PROFESSOR DAVID’S ACCOUNT. A DEEPLY INTERESTING NARRATIVE. Professor David, interviewed, said: —“There can now be little doubt that the Barrier is formed partly of glacial ice and partly of snow. This; view as to its origin is rendered highly probable through the discovery of Lieutenant Shackleton and his party of a vast glacier 50 miles wide and 120 miles long, descending from an elevated inland plateau over 10,000 ft above the sea level. Tlie glacier is probably one of many which- go to feed the great barrier. The great glacier described by the Southern party is fed by snow near the South Pole, and by its forward movement presses up the surface of the barrier for 20 miles from the shore line or inland edge into a series of long .pressure ridges like a continuation of large waves in the ocean. BARRIER’S SEAWARD MOVEMENT.

“Important evidence was found by Macintosh .and tins depot-laying party as to the actual -seaward movement of the barrier caused by the pressure of the inland glacier further south, it was found the Discovery’s, depot, near ■linna Bluff, bad travelled two geographical miles to the east-north-east in a period of six 3 r car,s and two months. J.t was also proved by the same party, that Sft 2in of snow had fallen during the same interval of time at the present site of depot A. This may be considered to be a fair average estimate of the snowfall for the barrier m tins latitude. It is obvious, therefore, that a shed of the barrier is approximately 300 or 400 miles south of its seaward front. There is time for many hundreds of feet of thickness of rsnow to accumulate on the surface of slowly moving glacial ice before it traverses the above distance in order to reach the sea front from which icebergs are from time to time broken off. THE TYPICAL BERGS.

“Observations by the expedition and soundings round "typical icebergs by Catpain Evans showed that the bergs most tvpical and common in the Antartic, a large tubular berg, grounded in what subsequently proved to be 13 fathoms of water. This goes to show that probably most of the bergs launched from the great, ice barrier are, in their unper proportions, at all events, of not "throughout, formed from snow rather than from glacial ice. The glacier ice on which the snow was originally deposited has nrobably been dissolved away in the sea water on which the harrier flows, probably for many scores of miles, before its northern limit is reached. MOST IMPORTANT RESULT. “One of the most important geological results of the expedition is to prove that the Antarctic region, from Ross Sea to the South Pole, is a great continental area in the nature of a plateau, its northern extremity, near Cape North, being from 6000 to <oooft. aboye sea level, over 7000 f- near the magnetic pole, over 8000 ft where it was traversed ' bv Captain Scott’s expedition, and about ‘ 10,500 ft at the topmost point reached by Lieutenant Shackleton. 88dc<' 23 min. S. This plateau continues across to the South Pole for some distance and probably extends onward in the direction or South America, towards Coat’s Land, discovered by Bruce. FORMER MILD CLIMATE OF THE SOUTH POLE. “The discovery of coal measures, and, I. think, measures of limestone, as far as 70deg. S. is obviously the extreme interest, tending to show that there was once a mild climate close to the South Pole, for both limestone and coal occur only under such conditions. 1 his coal measure and the limestone formations extend in an almost uninterrupted sheet from Sodeg. S. across the magnetic pole, a distance of over 1100 miles. Under the coal and sandstone formation is a widely-spread foundation of very rocky granites, schist, and coarse crystalline marble. A mineral from which thorium is commercially extracted for incandescent gas mantles, is so common in places that it is one of a local rock-forming mineral like black mica in granite. This mineral was discovered by Mr. Douglas Mawson at several spots along the coast, on the west side of Ross Sea.. “Professor David said that the ringed nenguin found at Cape Royds probably came all the tremendous distance from Graham’s Land, and was the only bird of this particular sort seen at this particular spot.” METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS. The speaker also stated _ that the results of the meteorological observations were bing worked up, and it was hoped they would prove eminently useful, both to New Zealand and to Australia, as solving the bearing of. the Antarctic conditions upon the weather m these latitudes. The observations would be. worked up here by local and expedition scientists, and they would be able to compare a series of observations taken simultaneously over a period or fifteen months in South Polar regions and here, to ascertain the effect of the tremendous blizzards experienced in tlie south upon the weather conditions or Australasia. At Cape Royds the northern party, Lieutenant Shackleton’s party, and the ship all too'K observations. Their station at Uape ltoyds was most favorable for studying the effects of the upper air currents. \ most interesting feature m this iespcct was the fact that they wore enabled to watch the clouds of smoke coming over the top of Mount Erebus. POOR DIET. Wilde, one of the southern party that was less than 100 miles from the Polo, gave a reporter some fragmentary nn--1)1 “The principal drawback of the whole of the trip,” he said, “was the extreme shortness of food. We were out one hundred and twenty-six days on ninetyone day’s rations. That was as much as we could carry. We wore as thin as rakes. Our allowance, winch consisted of pommiean biscuits, was to have been thirty-three ounces daily, Amt was cut down nearly half that for some weeks. ' “Yes” said Mr. Wilde ,“we could have got the other ninety-seven miles to the Bole, but we could not have got back. We were running so many risks the "bitwc* . , ■ One of the features of the equipment was the inclusion of a 'Cinematograph, ft recorded the unloading of stores Horn the- Nimrod in a blizzard, the arrival at Lyttelton harbor, the starting of tho sledge parties, and the action of the coals and sea leonards. Most intoi esting of all were the views pf penguins. which are tlie quaintest of b ids Dr Marshall, who was in charge of the kinematogr aph,. • states that the. results were highly satisfactory. Hc«l over a oooft of films, and anont -000. t nau S be given up to penguins alone. Over 1000 ft had been developed. He was sure the pictures obtained iqi .tlm •-innaratuv were good, and from a scionSMS* of vi™ will bo 1)1.0 moans of acidlng very largely . to : the tvoikl *

knowledge of the habits of Antarctic animals. ' .

A MESSAGE FROM THE QUEEN

Following is a cablegram received by Lieutenant Shackleton, Discovery ship Nimrod, Lyttelton. The editor of the “Daily Mail” is commanded by her gracious Majesty tlie Queen to convey to Lieutenant Shackleton her Majesty’s heartiest congratulations upon his great achievement.’ —Andrew Caird, editor in chief.” THE INLAND TREK. CHRIST CHURCH, March 23. Supplementing Professor David’s Magnetic Pole story. Mr. Mawson gave a graphic description of the long trek inland. The hauling was ail done by three men, no dogs being used. There was no supporting party, so the undertaking was especially daring and hazardous. The first few weeks exceedingly low temperatures were “recorded, the thermometer reading 30 to 40 degrees below zero. As the summer advanced, Mr Mawson %’dded, the weather became much warmer, and soon unbearably hot. It may seem strange, and doubtless will to persons whose general idea of the Antarctic is intense cold, when 1 tell you we had to strip off our outer garments. M e were often pulling the sledges clad only in singlets. The first portion of the journey was made with comparative ease, as about 250 miles of travelling lay along the sea ice up the coast. The adventurers journeyed along the coast until they discovered a suitable spot from which they struck inland and ascended the plateau. Mi’ Mawson. E-aid tliat both, the Discovery and Borchgrevink’s expedtions had the idea it was possible totravel along tlie sea ice with a dog team at a very rapid pace, hut they soon found the work very different from the descriptions given previously. They also saw their provisions would not last, and they were cut down to a very small allowance, which ad to be cooked on an extemporised blubber cooker. Seals and penguins were killed as tney went along and /cooked on a slow blubber “lamp.” “We soon managed to got used to the blubber, and swallowed seal oil. finally coming to drink it with a hearty relish.” Mr. Mawson said the Discovery party had stated that such food was so imputable and nauseating that tlie slightest amount was so highly objectionable as to cause vomiting. The explorers, however, took the diet easily, and found it really “ Only by establishing and stocking food depots were the party able to complete their hazardous journey and to return in safety. EFFECT OF COLD ON THE BODY. DR. MACK AY’S STATEMENT. CHRISTCHURCH, March 26. Dr Maclvay had something interesting to say regarding the physical effect of the low temperature experienced in the Antarctic regions. He had himself not been exposed to anything lower than minus 47 so far as cou.d be ascertained, but tlie minimum thermometers went wrong on the magnetic survey journey in which he took part. It was not possible for him to speak definitelv on the point. One of the effects of the excessive low temperature was that the fingertips hardened and lost sensation. Dr Mac Kay submitted his fingertips for examination. They bore the appearance of having been frequently skinned and healed over. He explained that this was due to the sloughing off of the skin which was accompanied by frostbite. Another serious effect of" the severe cold was loss of sleen and complete unconsciousness. Really sound sleep was apparently'never attained, though he supposed the irreducible minimum of sleep necessary to life must have supervened. The hardships attending upon such intense cold were only experienced by him for about a week, beginning in. the spring, after which the temperature rose daily till December. Down on. the coastal ice they were really too hot, and went about in a sweater.

THE MOTOR CAR NOT A SUCCESS

“The motor car was not an unqualified success.” said Lieutenant Shackleton. The car did about 450 miles in depot laying. The class of country travelled over, sea ice, with patches of snow, varied from about six inches in depth. We had trouble in lubricating the machinery, finding that the oil froze at minus 30 degrees. It was absolutely useless to expect the car to run on the surface of the barrier, as it was so soft, being composed of compressed snow in layers about one foot in depth, into which tlie wheels of the car sunk to the axles. Its rate of progress was about six miles per hour, but if the surface was good the car would sometimes do nine or ten miles an hour. Without a load the ear could do 30 miles an hour over sea ice.” Mr Day stated definitely that motor cars wore" absolutely useless on the Great Ice Barrier. No car could cope with the varied character of the country that had to be traversed. He was of the opinion that motor sledges similar to those to be used by the French Antarctic expedition under Captain ChareotBevcrv would be useful in Antarctic exploration. ANOTHER ADVENTURER’S STORY. EVERYONE TREMKXDOUSLY PROUD. Another member of the party says that when the Nimrod reached the base after leaving Lyttelton last December, there were only three men in the huts. Messrs Joyce, Marston, and. Day had been ' laying down depots. The northern party, which discovered the magnetic pole —viz., Professor David, Dr. Mackay, and Mr. Mawson, wore given up as hopelessly lost by ship, as tliev were long Overdue. The ship searched 300 miles of coast line, and eventually picked up the party in tho little inlet of Drydale Barrier. They had had a very rough time. They, s only "arrived there the night before, and were staving in the hope of being picked up. “It was the biggest piece of luck in the world that we managed to find them,” lie said. “They were due back in January, and it was then February 4th. After landing them at Hut Point, .the ship proceeded to the great iee varrier to search for Lieutenant Sbackletou’s southern party, which should have been back by February. 15. “The Nimrod got a severe gruelling in going round, and many days were occupied between the Discovers hut and the base but, waiting for them to turn up. All hope'of seeing them again was abandoned.. As it turned, out, thev were not picked up until March Ist, and were found through their signals to the ship. Only .Shackleton and Wild could be seen, they bavin cr come ill after a forced march to get relief for Dr. Marshall, who was

suffering from dysentry, and Lientbn- „• ant Adams, who was staying with him,' „ they being camned 23 miles away. . . “Naturaly those on board ’ received a terrible shock, thinking that tho other two members of tlie party had been lost. However, tbe matter wag. ‘ 5 quickly explained, and Lieute.iijnmi jj Shackleton, after getting a little to «3t,, set- off a.gain with a relief party two< hours later, and picked them up. “All returned safely to the ship at midnight on .March 3rd. They were all. ; _terribly thin, but as soon as they came on board they were given decent food, and you con'd almost see them., putting the flesh on again. “Everyobdy was tremendously proud :-j cf Lieutenant Shackleton’s great achievement cl boating Captain ScottV_; furthest south reord by 366 miles.” FURTHER MESSAGE FROM THE *; QUEEN. - 4 CH RI?iTCH URCH, Mar. 26. - Lieutenant Shackleton has received .* the following cablegram from the lit. ~ lion. Sir Digbton Probvn, on behalf of . Her Majesty the Queen: —“Your telegram received this morning. The Queen has read it with interest, and I have Her Majesty’s command to say she will gladly receive back from you on your r:.turn to England the Uukm Jack entrusted to your charge, and which you have now made of such historic interest and value. Am fur— ; ther commanded to convey to you the Queen’s appreciation of your desire, which she gladly consented to, that a new range r f mountains discovered by von in tlie Far Should be named after Her Majesty.—Dighton Probvn.” The total number of words distributed to various papers of New Zealand and elsewhere by the telegraph office last night, was i 10 ? 000. This included 8,00 words of cable press news. All work wa cleared for the'main stations by 2 a.m. WORLD-WIDE APPROBATION. COMMENDATION FROM CiI’TAIN SCOTT. SYDNEY,. March 26 The Sydney Daily Telegraph has an appreciative article on the splendid results achieved by Liuetenant Shackleton’s expedition. (Press Association.) WELLINGTON, March 26. Professor David, of the Antarctic expedition. left Wellington for Sydney bv the Maheno this evening. United Press Association —Copyright. LONDON. March 25. There is world-wide approbation from scientists upon the far-reaching importance of Lieutenant Shackleton'Sp discoveries. His wife lias, been overwhelmed with congratulations. Captain Scott, of Antarctic fame, being interviewed, commends the magnificent journey and splendid work. CONGRATULATIONS FROM THE KING. (Received March 26. 11.35 p.m.) LONDON. March 26.

'King Edward lias congratulated Lieutenant Shackleton and his comrades.