DRESS AND FASHION NOTES.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXXIII, Issue 3693, 30 November 1912, Page 9

DRESS AND FASHION NOTES.

LONDON AND PARISIAN

Linen is to be ns popular as over , ior coats and skirts, and in a rather ' fine'inako it looks particularly smart, 1 not only in white, but in pale shades of biscuit and day color. Coarse shantung is a favorite, too, and for juite warm weather wear finely embroidered white voile is much liked

These voile gowns are rendered more ffective by the addition of trimmings f various kinds of lace, very often ised together on one gown. Lingerie frocks are always dainty, and this year they are worn with additions of brightly colored silks and ntins, and veilings of chiffon, producing charming effects. For the dressy little coatees that are such avorites this season, taffetas, satin, ■orded silk, linen, and a very soft, fine cashmere are all being used. A pretty fashion, bound to lie well oceived is the short taffeta jackets if rich coloring. These are to wear ■ itli lingerie frocks. Buttons of exquisite workmanship are used to trim hese.

Pa]© rose taffeta fashioned one of 1 hese coats. Rhinestone buttons deoratod the front, back and sleeves. Taffeta is more popular than ever. Vn attractive of old gold and irown changeable taffeta had a broad girdle of sapphire bine. Small bows of the same material adorned the bodice. To wear with this costume was a three-ouarter length wrap of old gold and brown taffeta, embroidered with narrow silk soutache braid. There is quite a penchant for blue in millinery circles at present, chiefly of the vivid shades.

A smart tailored blouse was of rosecolored linen, and had a vest effect of plaited white linen. This was trimmed with pink linen buttons embroidered with white.

Another stunning blouse was of white linen, and was trimmed with bands of old blue linen embroidered with white.

A parasol of black-dotted net over yellow satin had a deep border of black velvet. Another of dark navy blue

I * . taffeta had a .border of cerise and v.'as ' ornamented with small roses made of bine and cerise taffeta. Among the new trimmings are knot- , ted fringe strung with bone beads; fancy silk braid in torchon lace designs; medallions in all varieties of laces'; strong, washable cotton braid, speciallv made to trim tub dresses, and crocheted buttons in silk or cotton. | Ribbon velvets in all colors are a marked feature of the summer costumes. Very often these fashion rosettes, flowers, or other fancy effects. Borders of ribbon appear on many of the lingerie frocks. The skirt of one extreme design was of grey and white striped light-weight' . material. 'l'he coat of plain, grey was '• cut away in front and formed a point in the back. A collar of broadcloth of a bright red fihishcd the neck line. ■Crystal buttons were used to fasten the coat-. The skirt of another tailored suit ■ was of black satin. White satin was 1 used to fashion the coat, while the collar and cuffs were of black satin. Largo jet- buttons trimmed both coat and skirt. The low-cut collar is such an im- | portrait item just now that it requires special . mention. Collars cut down to reveal a tiny Y-shaped opening m front are much in favor, and a double . jabot frill, appears below in many cases. Hemstitched lawn is specially smart and becoming for wide collars on simj pie frocks, and pleated net accounts for many of the all-round neck-frills, i Lace of almost every make is rci quisitioned for the large collars extending down tlie back in a pointed or circular shape, and brought to a point | well down on each side in front. 1 Flounces are creeping in by slow degrees, but there is no doubt that ! they will prevail in the near future, ! and give a little more fulness to our . skirts. At present the one or two i scanty frills permitted by Dame Fa- : snion merely emphasises the restricted width and help to shorten our figures, i Quillings are already in vogue, and ! ruches of ribbon, and I am wondering if those terribly ragged and untidy ! ‘‘frayed'-' ruches will over return. I fancy even the “worm will turn'-' at j those, for they had little claim to j beauty and required an immensity of ■ material. i Quillings figure conspicuously on a ' model which is eminently desirable in , chiffon, ninon, or soft satin, and in soft blue or pale rose du Barri makes ’ a pretty evening frock with its note of . black velvet at the raised waist. XaI turally, the shape of the foundation is of importance in such gowns, and these are usually in the scantiest of princess form, and quite distinct from | the overdress. | Complete overslips of tucked ninon ! are also modish, and many have the j becoming Rejane sleeves, reaching 1 well over'the hand. Chemisettes of pin-tucked tulle,, powdered with . French knots in gold or silver thread, ' are of the newest, and most- becomingj ly transparent, especially if the lining is of fine pink tulle or chiffon. ! .Shall we, I wonder, ever tire of the blouse? Just now it is at its best in the softest textures, or in cobwebby ' net, with tinsel strands and faint tone-lies of dainty coloring. Very ornamental, too, are those narrow panels and plastrons which connect the Magyar blouses, many of which are much fuller from the shoulders, but still retain that graceful slope which is so effective when no armhole seam disturbs its outline. An admirable model for tucked ninon in pinstriped washing silk, and the little chemisette and undersleeves of lace add greatly to the dainty effect. It could easily he carried out in the same tint as the skirt to form a complete costume, or copied in ivory tint to wear with sundry skirts. The cuirass style of bodice in conjunction with the bandless neck and modified Quaker collar, is most attractive. and there are. in addition, those drooping draperies of striped satin, which relieve the plain cloth of the gown. A cuirass of metallic net over silk or satin is most, effective for. evening wear, or softer and most effective for evening wear, or softer and most becoming over tucked ninon with falling bretelles of deep lace. ! The latest cult of the flounce is where the narrow skirt has triple tucks, finished with frills, and the short-waisted bodice is full, and finished with a deeper frill, which suggests a quaint little basque Wow the velvet belt. Quite a modish little frock for a young, slim wearer, it is of simple make, and has no trimming beyond the frills of material. Stripes, of which we have somewhat wearied in cotton and lawn, seem to acquire a new aspect in silk and ninon. and some of the striped delaines are really charming. For afternoon home wear T would suggest black and white striped silk, the stripes of the tiniest, and some black ribbon velvet and buttons. - Amongst the hats there are some very pretty models. So far, I have failed to see any charm in tlie “Tamo’ slmnters.” On the contrary, they are not devoid of a vulgar flavor, and they-are not one bit becoming. The “Tudor” bat, on the other hand, is really beautiful. It lias a slightly upturned brim, a full crown, and a long ostrich feather or an imposing “mount” of corn and flowers as decor-

| ation. 1 The ‘■Steeple” hat is here; some- ! times the whole crown is made of flowers, at othsr it is of the inevitable | taffetas, and it is often quite a charming affair, when worn by a young and ! pretty woman. Mercifully, the brim--1 med hat is still with us : mountainj high trimmings are used by some mil- ! liners, and 1 have even seen some ; feather wings tied together at the very j top by a perky little bow of black j velvet' Some other new model hats i have very exaggerated brims rolled right up upon the left-hand side, with the feathered trimming sewn up against this high brim, so as to aid it in its celestial flight! I Despite the temptation of many more ornate ornamentations, the young girl still remains faithful to her ( simple ribbon bandeau, which is so I much more amenable to individual adjustment than the made-up sequin confections. The latter worn by the

right person are charming enough, particularly the wide Empire cacliepeigne; but simplicity happily remains the keynote universally struck by la jeune Idle. Another distinguishing note about her at the moment is a quiet abstention from jewellery. In this she affords a- striking contrast to the young married woman, whose excessively long earrings, diamond hearts, and ropes of pearl are all recognised media of the vraie elegante’s toilette.

A favorite little affectation with the. jeune Idle, however, is a long wisp of tude about the throat. There are some girls woli adopt qiute consistently, for clay as well as evening wear, this tulle scarf, the floating ends of which allow a coquettish handling.