FROM GISBORNE TO DUNEDIN AND BACK.

Gisborne Standard and Cook County Gazette, Volume III, Issue 410, 30 January 1890, Page 3

FROM GISBORNE TO DUNEDIN AND BACK.

BY “ PAX.”—(No. 3.) Having * done’ Christchurch, putting in ail the time possible, a rush is made lor the station, to gain the train leaving for Lyttelton. While there awaiting the departure of the train, two old and familiar faces present themselves, which I recognise as those of Messrs Holdaway and Grinling, both being officers of the Salvation Army in Gisborne on its initiation here. I also met Mr Hughes at Christchurch, on the return journey. After exchanging compliments at the station, we got into the train, and in a short while find ourselves again on the Tarawera. steaming away for our destination—Dunedin —which port we reached about 6 a.m, on Wednesday. On arriving at the wharf the same familiar sounds grate on the ears—‘ Cab, sur 7', and ' Carry yer luggage, sur.’ Not having any luggage to carry, it was not necessary to call on the services of the porter, and being desirous of having a Dunedin morning breeze, I preferred to walk. The steward directed me to a nice quiet, and well conducted house —the Temperance Hotel —in Maclaggan Street, kept by an old Dunedinite of about 25 years standing, Mr Michael Cox, woom I found very obliging, together with Mrs Cox, both doing all they can for the comfort and happiness of visitors. Mr Cox is as genial as he is aged, and a thorough Liberal, both in his politics, and his table, on which there are both quantity and quality, and persons visiting Dunedin I should certainly advise to Sty Mr Cox' a visit. Having arrived at unedin, the first thing necessary is a good breakfast, then to the Exhibition building, in order to fulfil my mission,. Having done so I am at leisure to take a ramble through the several courts and bays. The present show is truly wonderful for a place such as Naw Zealand, and proving, as it does, the Independence of the colony. Everything we require can be produced by ourselves, as is plainly shown there. I cannot attempt to give a minute description of tbs several exhibits, which are too numerous and extensive, so I will only notice them in a general way. On entering the front door, and in the centre of the large dome, stands a statue of the Queen, Turning to the left, is tbs Armament Court, showing all our gone used in defence, also a lot of torpedoes of (lit tarent kinds, and electric mines. Continuing pn, all kinds of produce is shown, together irith great piles of woollen goods manufactured in the colony, from some of the finest wool in the world. There are piles of leather and of boots, saddles, and other sorts of leather goods, There are huge heaps of coal. Bundles of rope, made from the N.Z. flax, are exhibited, the flax Ming shown from the green blade up to a pocket handkerchief. There are all kinds of water and gas fittings, lead god iron piping, stoves and ranges. Pottery, from a flowerpot to a large oentre ornament ; pottery, in the shape of razors, knives, axes, reaphooks, adzes, swords; glass oases filled with beautiful clothing; great quantities of timber of various kinds; furniture, both ornamental and useful, manufactured from the beautiful timbers of New Zealand. In

gbort, wo have every requisite for human pomfort and happiness, from the simplest seed pp to the * precious metal,' and all we require js plenty of people to develop our resources. The opening of the Exhibition will bs reMsmbered, for the remainder of their lives, by those who had the good fortune to be present, To a New Zealander, it was a grand speotanle, the Exhibition showing tbs: which was hitherto hidden—the extent of the products at the colony, and its natural resources. The procession preceding the opening was a brilliant affair, being marshalled in grand style. I do not know how many people tor.'- part in it, but I know that it took an uonr to pass a given point. Banda were playing, banners waving, and the Steady tramp of the volunteers while on the march, with their bright uniforms, shining accoutrements, end good step, was simply grand, I cannot forget the Highland Brigade, it being the first time I had ever heard a * band o’ pipers.* The pipes may be noisy, but like the drums and fifes, they have the effect of regulating a firm and steady step on the march. Next to the opening of the Exhibition comes the Cup races, arranged especially tor the occasion, held at the Forbury flat, a very good course, and surrounded with delightful scenery which makes it really • pleasure to go there. There being two large stands there is no lack of accommodation, at prices to enit yourself. The Governor was present, having a place set apart in the grandstand for himself and suite. There an in the city of Dunedin many fine buildings, substantially constructed, chiefly of brick and stone; the architecture and general appearance are pleasing, combining neatness with beauty, and altogether proving that wealth abounds in the Southern City. The streets are good, and there is an efficient water supply, together with good drainage, both of which of course tend greatly towards maintaining the sanitary arrangements of a city, and ensure a healthy population. Going •long Princess Street the Cargill Fountain is reached. It has an historical significance, having been erected in the early days of Dunedin, and in honor of 'the man whose name it bears. It has rather an imposing appearance, built as it is on a solid foundation. Proceeding onward, you find yourself in the Octagon, where the Town Hall, with its gnat clock dial, as it it were a sentinel proudly overlooking the bronze statue of Bootland's famous bard, Robert Burns, who seems to be sitting in state on a large pedestal. Continuing along the same route, although the street here changes its name to George Street, Knox’s Church is the next point of interest—a substantial looking stone building, with its spire towering high in the air; the tower portion, with the exception of the windows, almost

completely covered with ivy, giving it a regular old country appearance. Further along George Street a good deal of nice scenery is net with, in the way of beautifully kept hedges, of laurel, quicks, and other plants, L together with well laid out gardens, green I plateaus and ornamental cottages, and ivy. ' dad walla, all tending to gladden tbs heart of the visitor. At last the bridge which connects with a continuation of the same line of road is met with. Thia bridge is over the Water o’ Leath, a shallow but pretty river. Hers stands the largo brewery of Joel and Co. Taking a turn to the left, you go along a well metalled road, with the residences of some of the city merchants on the one side, the river being on the other. In a short while tbs * town belt,’ is reached—a beautiful thicket of native trees and shrubs. They are common all over New Zealand, but the preservation of such, and in that locality, proven the good cense of the old Dunedinites. Going further along, now with bush on both sides, and crossing the river and passing some factories, the * boulders ’ are reached. Then the fun begins, for the boulders are large and slippery, and in the eagerness of one person to outstrip the remainder, there is an occasional slip, by which the equilibrium is lost and the water gained, 'often knee deep. Such incidents naturally evoke roars of laughter from all except the victim. Along we go, Undaunted by the large stones over which we jump like a lot of goats; np through the fetnolad wall, with bush on the top and nearly excluding the light. The walls, or cliffs, rise io many places to about fifty feet, and in some places nearly meat at the top, making an almost complete archway. After about two miles of thia sort of travelling, the object of tbs search was reached—that is, • The Falla.* They are from a height of about forty feet. Though not large, they are rather pretty; the wide silvery stream of Vater comes rushrug rapidly down the mossglad perpendicular cliff to the basin below, Into which there is but a narrow entrance. The water is vary nice to drink, being icy gold and very elear, On leaving the * fells * a drag brings you beak to the bri : ” fai pence, and after a abort walk you iu-y o*;ch the tram whion takes you to the fountain. Next day, if you wish to leave the noise and din of the busy city; yon may take a run out to Mornington, e very pleasant and beautiful aubgrb of Dunedin, which is reached by means of a cable tram, running np a very Steep hill. It is a most curious affair, at first sight, for on looking at the carriage it seems M U it won going along without any motive power whatever, but on close inspection the cause fa Mt far to seek, Io a kind of tunnel under the letel of the strict, the 1 cable’ is to ba seen very plainly, through the groove in which the MMeeting machinery works. Arriving at Morning ion, the tramoar itapi right «i the lUUwh wbmin liu

the whole secret. There is a very large and powerful engine, constantly working, day and night, continually winding an endless wire rope round a huge drum which is connected by cogwheels, in order to gain speed and power; also two large fly wheels about twelve or fourteen feet in diameter. Passing through Mornington, over the hills, beautiful scenery is met with. There are plenty of shady walks, the native verdure on the hills being luxuriant and growing in profusion. So after a long, though pleasant walk, the Kaikora Valley is reached, with its nicely laid out farms and bright green hedges. There are some factories here, but being Sunday when we visited the place, they were of course not working. Travelling on, we reached the North East Valley, which is quite a small town in itself. Back again, and through lhe Northern Cemetery, wherein is displaced a rare collection of artistic stone work, for the tablets, tombstones, and grave fences, point to the time when money was plentiful in Dunedin. Leaving the cemetery, and rambling round the hill, dense clumps of bush are met with, and a beautiful view of Dunedin comes in sight; the river running at the foot of the hill, and rushing rapidly over the boulders, with a slight roar, and onward through the gardens, thus completing a rather pretty picture. Now the aspect of the gardens is good, but so far that is certainly the better part of it, as it is chiefly composed of trees, grass lawns, and but very few flowers ; winding walks, and a pond with some tame swans lazily floating about, and intently watching visitors. Those swans are evidently well versed in begging, for they will reach their bills for morsels of food, even from the greatest stranger. .After the gardens, the museum is the next point of interest, and, like the museums in Wellington and Christchurch, there is a fine collection of stuffed birds, some stuffed animals, and some very large fish, including an enormous shark that was caught in the Dunedin harbor. Its great mouth is wide open, showing the rows of sharp pointed teeth, indicating destruction to anything that came within the cruel msw during life time. The huge skeleton of a whale, quite complete, and about fifty feet in length, ie hanging suspended by large iron fastenings. The two monsters of tho deep, or rather what remains Of them, attract a good deal of notice from those who visit the building. There is also a number of stuffed sealskins, looking quite lifelike, one being especially large. The minerals show up well, including a precious i diamond.* Insects, birds’ eggs, and shells are in great variety. Tho fossilised ferns and fish are so complete that one is almost inclined to think that the chisel of the artist is only trying to deceive the spectator, in his imitation of Nature. On the 3ir.li of November there were various omipgs, the picnic of the Protestant Alliance being one among the number, and for the sake of seeing the country and for the trip by tail, I elected to go, the destination being Green Island, After spending a very pleasant day, I had a return trip by express train, which came along pretty quick. Having seen as much of Dunedm as time would permit, duty again called me back to tbe Exhibition, and like others in the same position, got free scope of the whole building, where, as I have already stated, all the nice and useful things of New Zealand are tor show. In addition there is the ' Switcuback railway, causing a great deal of fun. fine • performing fleas,’ is a really wonderful show, aa the little insects are made to draw bansome cabs, haul along ships, and draw water, all in a small way, but they do it. There is a really wonderful piece of mechanism called an • Orchestorian,’ giving out some very sweet music, both nigger melodies and operatic. In the Exhibition gardens, there are some shrubs and flowers, and an artificial waterfall on a email scale. The water, rushing down the rocks with a roar, makes the falls come in for a good share of attraction. One of the several bands plays every fine evening in tbe rotunda, which is erected about the centre of the gardens. There is also a Maori bouse. But the most beautiful sight in the whole building, from a natural point of view, is the Fernery, with its artificial brooklets, looking just as if N» l u ra made them, while they are producing tho usual * music of the brook,’ as heard in the forest. The miniature glens are here and there illuminated by vary small specks of electric light, which in the surrounding darkness makes the natural picture look quite fairy like. In my enthusiasm I had almost forgotten the proverbial Chinaman, whose brethren live in Dunedin by tho score, from the merchant down to the market gardener. Now, having detailed to a certain extent, my brief visit to Dunedin, I trust I have not failed to make it both interesting, and instructive, while showing, as was my intention at the outset, why Gisborne is so baokward.as compared to other towns. It should be insisted upon that the Union Company should allow their steamers to remain at the port of Gisbore sufficiently long to give passsengere or visitors ample time to come on shore, the same as they are allowed to do at other towns, and look around for themselves. The fares to and from the shore is another item to be considered, tor many passengers on learning that 2s 6d is charged, prefer to remain on the steamer, and not go on shore. Now,. as the launch belongs entirely to the Union Company, I contend that it is only right that through passengers should be conveyed to and fro free of charge, and in doing so, I believe the Company would be fully recompensed in other ways. Supposing a ship has a large number of through passengers, and they all come ashore—is there anything saved? It may be a selfish way in looking at it, but it is true all the same, for the saving at Napier and Gisborne would be an item worth consideration, eo I trust the U.S.S. Company will see their way cleat to take into oonsideration tbe suggestion, when more people would be induced to travel, and visitors may be induced to prolong their stay ; and do as in other towns—leave us a little of their spare cash.