MOUNT EVEREST.

Manawatu Standard, Volume LIII, Issue 22, 22 December 1932, Page 7

MOUNT EVEREST.

EXPEDITION NEXT YEAR. PERSONNEL COMPLETED. (British Official 'Wireless.) RUGBY, Dec. 20. Tlie personnel of the Mt. Everest expedition, which "will leave England early next year to make an attack on tlie world’s highest peak, has been completed by the addition of Mr T. A. Brocklebank, a well-known Cambridge rowing man, and Mr L. 11. Wager, who was a member of the British Arctic air route expedition in 1931. Mr Brocklebank three times stroked the Cambridge crew to victory in the university boat race. Tho party, which includes Mr F. S. Smyth, who led tho expedition which successfully scaled Mt. Kamet, the highest peak so far climbed by man, is being led by Mr Hugh Ruttlege, late of the Indian Civil Air Force. Tlie expedition has been formed by a joint committee of the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club.

DIFFICULTIES OF TASK. The problem of attacking such a mountain as Everest differs immensely from an ordinary mountaineering expedition. Many of the methods necessary for polar exploration must he used. A large number of first-class porters are required, owing to the immense amount of stores, which must be moved to great altitudes. In 1922 the expedition drew its porters mainly from subjects of Nepal, belonging to a tribe known as Sherpas. The chief problem is the race with the monsoon. From May It° ea £7 June is the only suitable time for tlie attack on the mountain, and even this is dominated by tlie approach of the monsoon. Up to the arrival of the south-west monsoon the whole northern slopes of the Himalayas are swept by an intensely dry and cold wind. Wliilo these conditions continue the mountains are safe if human beings can stand the terrible cold tho immense fatigue, and tlie dominating factor of low atmospheric pressure. "When once the _ humid and warm south-west monsoon is established the mountains are unapproachable, snows thaw, avalanches fall, and progress is impossible. Hence an immense amount of exertion must be undertaken in a brief period. In the first assault on the mountain, in 1922 a camp was established with great difficulty at about 25,000 feet. Hitherto onlv once had a camp been pitched as high as 23,000 feet, and then only for one night. The camp was occupied on May 19, and next morning three of tho climbers, Messrs Somervell Norton and Mallory, pushed on until they attained _ 26,985 feet tlie highest point to which human beings had climbed. Subsequently, with tlie aid of an oxygen apparatus, two other climbers, Mr Finch and General Bruce reached 27,300 feet. A third attempt met with disaster, seven men being swept over an ice cliff by an avalanche and kilied. In the attempt of 1924 Messrs Norton and Somervel pitched a camp at 26,800 feet, and reached 28,200 feet on the following day. One morning Norton who had been fit and well, awoke absolutely sightless from snow blindness. Still one more attempt was made by Messrs Mallory and Irvine Loads were carried for them to 2/.UUU feet. Mr Odell, another climber, watched their ascent. He saw them high up the mountain, file mists blew across, and they were seen no more.