OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Gisborne Times, Volume XXVII, Issue 2648, 2 November 1909, Page 7

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

THE PRINCIPLES OF SELLING AND BUYING AYOOL.

(From Our Own Correspondent.) BRADFORD, Sept, 17, 1909. AVhlle cogitating about the wool trade in general the subject of selling and buying crossed my mind, and being on the eve of a fresh series of sales, the topic is worth considering. Selling wool is now a big business, and. it has been specified. 'Why should it not he when probably in no other trade in the world such large amounts of money change hands. A few months back I had the privilege of inspecting the catalogue of a London wool sale that took place in 1829, this being the oldest catalogue extant. The largest lot numbered 3 bales, and if I remember right the word “washed” was the only description given to any one lot of wool. How greatly has this business developed during the last fifty years. It,, is •expected) that Australia alone will turn out something like two million bales for the coming wool year, and that will represnt at least 30 million sterling. Selling the raw material is more difficult than some seem to think, and without doubt to handle a clip satisfactorily a man- must have a good knowledge of the article itself. It would be the height of foolishness to place in the hands of an average auctioneer a clip of wool for sale, for lie would have no knowledge of how to class and catalogue the same. After all, the man selling a clip of wool can at times aid materially in disposing of same at a satisfactory .price, and it should be his work to make lots which are as uniform as possible. Putting clothing and combing together, which has often been done in the past, is a huge mistake, some buyers wanting the former and some passing them by altogether. Then, it is oftentimes wise to make pieces into two and three lets, selling to themselves the first and second, and also the stained.

# FACTORS IN BUYING WOOL. The buying of wool is perhaps a far more important subject than that of selling, _ancl to know the principles which govern and actuate buyers cannot but be useful to a largo number of readers. First and foremost, every buyer has before him his special need, and he has to shape his operations according to what he wants. A wool that suits one man may bo passed over by half a dozen, every man seeking the class of material which he knows will suit him best. For instance, a man may be wanting combing, and everything else but that lie leaves strictly alone. Another, who is essentially a woollen cloth manufacturer, wants something shorter, hence clothing, pieces, bellies, and locks command his attention. It should be known that a buyer operating for the woollen trade can utilise materials which a man in the top industry would pass by altogether. iSome wools behave quite differently both in combing, spinning, and finishing to others, and this also is an important consideration that has to bo borne in mind. It is no earthly use a man attempting to get the same results but of bellies and locks that he would out of combing, and ho. knows this well enough.' It is to his,interests to buy the right material if lie' would obtain satisfactory results, and with this object in view he visits sale aftel sale for the express purpose of buying just what his clients desire." Owing to wools -in - quality from 28 s to 100’s it is possible to produce a great variety of materials which would otherwise be impossible if all wools were say 40’s or 60’s quality.

FEATURES WHICH DETERMINE PRICE.

There are several well defined _ features which determine the price of any class of wool, and these should ho known to everyone, especially growers. First of all there is quality. Quality in wool is that feature, which determines its spinning value, for. without tins wool would be of very little use, I here is something more in quality than a superstition, and what nature has left out in this particular no man can put in. It’s all right enough some men, being content with a low degree of fineness of fibre, but a spinner knows its real worth, and it is indeed of supreme importance to him to have that which he knows will produce an even and sa*

tisfaotory yarn. Fineness of fibre -means a great deal, and if that feature is present when he goes round valuing, lie places upon -it all that ho can afford to give. I have never yet seen it stated what is the real cause of quality, but no doubt some day we. shall bo informed and the reason given why one sheep produces a finer fleece than another. The principles of selection and environment have played an important part in determining quality, and it is a well-known fact that if a breed of sheep is removed from its natural snr--1 roundings in two years’ time it will to some extent change the character t of its fleece, as well as its quality. However, this feature will always stand in th’e-very forefront as a determining factor of the price of the raw material, 4nd it should never be under valued by growers. Another important feature is length of staple. Here we have a characteristic which only those with a knowledge of textile manufacture can appreciate, and length always counts in. deciding the price which the buyer can afford ■ to give. A short stapled wool is no use for woolcomlnng purposes, and the longer the fibre as a rule the more valuable it is. The reader can see that if the long fibres of human liair shorn from a woman’s head are taken and twisted together, the process will be an infinitely easier one that if we paid a visit to a barber’s (shop and obtained the short fibres which have been cut from a man’s head, the former producing a longer and stronger thread than, that obtained from the shorter fibres. the same principle obtains in wool. Even in merinos a staple of three inches is far more . valuable than a staple of 14 inches, while in crossbreds the longest fleeces are put through what is known as a “preparing” process which produces the best spun yarns, while short, stumpy fleoces are “carded.” Of course, is is impossible to “prepare” wool above 46’s quality, but from 36’s to 46’s both prepared and cardefl tops are made, the former as a rule soiling at a penny per lb. more than the latter. Here comes in the value of length, and we get the same even in merinos, there being-produced by many topmakers both a long and short 60’s top. Another important feature is that of color. The moye white is a fleece, and the more valuable it is. I should say that Victorian, Tasmanian, and South African merinos come the bess color, and “dingy” yellow whites a”e only fit for dyeing purposes. I. don’t suppose woolgrowers have much control over color, that being very largely a question of the soil upon which the sheep run. However, see that no dipping material is used that will in anywise* stain the fibre or make it harsh and brittle, but try and preserve color, for that is a very important essential. Then condition is also of first importance. AVool now is bought eh a “clean yield” basis, or how much it will cost when scoured. It is a mistake to think that it pays to grow heavy conditioned wool, and this fallacy wants shattering, especially throughout South Africa. ‘Good, light conditioned fleeces are what the trade wants, and men pay for these a better price than t-liej* do for heavy, earthy wools.